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Firefly - 3 days on Hiva Oa, Marquesas



We arrived at the anchorage outside the town of Atuona just before dark and just after a rainstorm - so perfect timing. The approach along the South coast was spectacular with steep green, heavily wooded slopes, the tops shrouded in cloud. With high peaks of over 1000 metres the volcanic island and its neighbours Motane, Tahuata and Fatu Huku (which looks like a whale) were visible from over 30 miles away.

The 'finish' line - was between a small island and prominent headland close to the harbour. Firefly was in the top third of the fleet to arrive and as we write this three days later there are still around 10 boats to arrive. So Firefly did very well on a fast and enjoyable passage. We toasted our arrival with a 'few' rum and cokes and tropical cocktails, this was enough excitement for the day and perfect for a good and full nights sleep.

The last three days have been spent touring the island and enjoying the comforts of dry land, we made the 40 min walk into town for essential supplies such as beer and cash. We paid homage to the two local celebrities; the artist Paul Gaugin and Belgian signer Jacques Brel visiting their graves in the pretty cemetery overlooking the coast and their two separate museums. Both were impressive; many of Gaugin's paintings had been copied - recreated with the vibrant colours capturing the spirit and subject of the originals; which are all back in France or elsewhere. None of us knew anything about Jacques Brel - who not only was a singer and actor in the 1970s but also a yachtsman and pilot. He sailed here from Eurpoe and used his small plane to help the islanders, ferrying people and mail to Tahiti. He was respected highly by the locals, his exhibition is built around his aircraft and photos of his time on the islands.

We have enjoyed some good meals of local pork and fish, one restaurant run by 'Alex' a former French Foreign Legionnaire and his wife is actually their home, perched on a hill overlooking our anchorage and is proving a regular 'homely' night spot for the rally participants.

Exercise has also been on the agenda; we walked and climbed up into the hills behind Atuona in search of a waterfall, we only found a reservoir, stream and water catchment but enjoyed some dramatic views back to the coast. To go father a field we hired a 4x4 taxi to take us to the coastal village of Puama'u. Here we saw remains of pre-European civilisation, a religious sanctuary dating back to 150 BC including 5 stone sculptures or Tiki. The site was used for various ceremonies; covering burials, circumcision and human sacrifices! Both the Maoris and Easter Islanders are decedents from the Marquesans. Despite a very good lunch of local fish, pork and goat (a little on the tough side) the highlight was the 2 hour drive over the hills and along the coastline with breathtaking views. Our driver and guide Freida was a gem, full of knowledge about the islands and culture. We raised the subject of cannibalism on our drive; apparently the last case of this in the Marquesas was over 100 years ago and fortunately according to Freida on another island in the group. Freida is part Tahitian, and she says her relatives from there often remind her that she is now living with cannibals!

This morning we said farewell to Hiva Oa and have set sail South (in fact motoring) for Fatu Hiva the most isolated island of the archipelago. Once there we plan to anchor in the Bay of Virgins, reported by Robert Louis Stevenson as 'the most beautiful bay in the world' - so we have high expectations (of the view!)

Paul, David and Peter



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