can we help
+44(0)1983 296060
+1 757-788-8872
tell me moreJoin a rally

Menu

Firefly - Havannah Habour to Lamen Bay



The forecasted wind and rain arrived on Sunday 28th September as expected and for about 10 hours it rained 'cats and dogs' but despite some strong gusts our anchorage in Esame Bay in Havannah Harbour was fine. The weather improved the following day and we SCUBA dived at the Tranquility island resort, great coral and plenty of sea life in very clear water, the highlight being spotting a crocodile fish - half buried in the sand beneath a coral bommie - according to our book on fish this species at about 1 metre long should have been in the Indian Ocean not here!

We conveniently left Firefly on the mooring they have just off the beach at Tranquility Island while diving and were then looking forward to a quiet night. However, overnight some breeze and chop arrived so after a broken sleep we headed off early to sail to Nguna island. We stopped at another rolly anchorage off Utalangi Village and this meant we were keen to go ashore for some 'terra firma'. Landing on the beach we were met by Thomas, the Chief's son who spent a couple of hours showing us around the village and land nearby.

Thomas explained that on Nguna they have their own language, completely different to Bislama, English and French which most them can speak as well. They are clearly living at near subsistence levels with the only real income coming from selling fruit and vegetables (which grow abundantly here) at the market in Port Vila - they do as a kind of village co operative and when they go its a boat and van ride to get there and they sleep at the market. They may also make a little money from tourism here but its sporadic. To get regular jobs related to tourism they have to go to Port Vila or to established resorts. Thomas also explained that its a regular occurence for a number of the youngsters to go to New Zealand and Australia for several of the summer months to pick fruit. As we walked around the village he showed us several plots where building materials were already piled up ready to build houses and fruit gardens established - these belonged to the people who were currently working away making money - he assured us they all wanted to come back, build their houses and live in the village.

Leaving Nguna early on Wednesday 1st October we reefed down as the wind was blowing 25 knots across the anchorage. Our destination was Lamen Bay on Epi about 55nm north. It was a beautiful sail on a fast broad reach despite a moderate swell causing Firefly to roll heavily at times. As we rounded the south of Epi into the lee of the island we expected the wind to drop but it was still blowing at about 15 knots and we had a great sail for the last 7 miles on a beam reach in flat water close into the lush island.

Lamen Bay has been a lovely anchorage, a shallow sandy and muddy area fairly close to the shore is the best place for yachts and there were another 3 there when we arrived - one French, one Dutch and one from New Zealand. This is the bay where 'Bondas' the friendly Dugong is often seen - a Dugong being a dolphin like mammal also known as a Sea Cow. Bondas has not shown up as yet but we have seen about 10 large turtles near the boat - apparently they like to feed on the same kind of seaweed and grass that grows on the bottom here. Before we leave Lamen Bay, bound for Malekula we are going to try and see a Dugong and have just heard that two have been spotted in the next bay so we are heading there in our dinghy.

Paul and Susie

Previous | Next