can we help
+44(0)1983 296060
+1 757-788-8872
tell me moreJoin a rally

Menu

Starblazer - 03/03/2014 - Tortoises and leaving Galapagos



03/03/2014 - Tortoises and leaving Galapagos

We spent our last full day with Richard and Stephanie taking a 3 hour taxi
tour of Santa Cruz. The first stop was El Chato Tortoise Reserve, in the
agricultural highlands. We had scarcely turned off the main road when we
spotted the first few, mainly in the fields on either side but one was
wandering down the track! To reach the reserve you walk through private
land, again we saw lots of giant tortoises, then we entered the reserve.
There were no fences, gates or cattle grids to keep the animals in so it was
completely natural. There were a number of mud holes plus the only fresh
water lagoon on the island, according to our taxi driver. Enormous ortoises
were everywhere, wallowing in mud or water, blocking paths, snoozing under
trees, chomping on grass etc. It was wonderful.

On the way back to the taxi, back on private land, the taxi driver took us
into some lava tunnels, the remains of volcanic lave flows ages ago. They
were quite spectacular with one tube lying above another. We had to pay $3
each for visiting the tunnels. After a rest and cold drinks we went on to
Los Gemeles, two huge sink holes, one on either side of the main road. They
are of volcanic origin though do not look like craters, having almost
vertical sides dropping down from a relatively flat plateau. It was a very
good trip, we gave the taxi driver $60 even though he only asked for $40
because we thought it was worth it and he had acted as a guide throughout.
Other organised trips, on boats, are around $150 dollars each, so we were
well satisfied.

Richard and Stephanie left us on Thursday to start their epic journey to the
other side of the world, we are only a quarter of the way round from the UK.
I walked to the Darwin Research Station to see tortoises from different
islands and to see the babies they breed in captivity before reintroducing
to their native islands. It was very interesting. John, meanwhile, went
back to the boat to do further battle with the generator, to change the
seawater pump on the main engine and replace one of its alternator belts.

We had organised a water delivery for 0900 on Thursday, it was only a little
late, and we finally refuelled late on Friday afternoon. I walked to the
farmers’ market on Saturday morning, the choice was good but the quality not
so good. We’ll see how well it all lasts. We were ready for the start on
Sunday morning.

Unexpectedly there was enough wind to sail over the start line, in fact we
managed to sail for nearly 10 hours before giving in and putting on the
engine. This boat was not built to sail fast in light airs, at least not
when heavily loaded for long term cruising, which probably explains our
handicap as the slowest boat in the fleet. We rapidly slid back from
halfway to back marker. Roll on the trade winds, we might do better there!
I weathered two heavy showers during my first watch, John stayed dry.

Dinner was cold roast chicken with new potatoes, leeks, squash and guacamole
followed by a chocolate mousse type dessert with orange slices soaked in
Brandy. The orange slices were the good bits from 3 slightly soggy small
oranges I’d bought at the market, as I said quality wasn’t good.

Nearly time to wake the skipper and start keeping a good lookout for a
fishing line which has already caught one of the boats ahead of us.

Joyce




Previous | Next