American Spirit II - Day 465; We Left Virgin Gorda and Arrived in Jost Van Dyke Island; Thursday, April 16, 2015


One year ago today:



"Day 103; Tuomotos Islands Summary, Departed Rangiroa to Moorea, Almost Whale Collision?, Lightning & Full Orange Moon Rise; Wednesday, April 16, 2014. Since we're leaving Rangiroa this morning early, I thought I'd summarize my thoughts regarding the Tuomotos Archipelago, or Dangerous Archipelago. We visited two atolls, Ahe and Rangiroa; entering and leaving thru passes with a lot of current; as much as 4.5 knots; against and with the current. However, the French mark these passes quite well with range markers, and I believe the use of the word 'dangerous' is overstated and no longer applicable. Exciting would be a better word. Our electronic charts were quite accurate, moreso than the Galapagos. The biggest surprise in these atolls was the size of the coral heads, which on Ahe rise up from 40 and 120 feet to within 10 feet of the surface or less. And having your anchor chain wrap around one of these coral heads can lead to an extended period of extricating your anchor and chain when you depart. One boat took 3 to 4 hours to free themselves from Manihi Atoll, and another with us in Ahe took 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Instead of the 'Dangerous Archipelago' they should call these atolls the 'Dangerous Anchorages.' Even in Rangiroa it took us 24 minutes to weigh anchor, in shallower, clearer water with less threatening and smaller coral heads to contend with than we had in Ahe.



Drift snorkeling thru Ahe was better than Rangiroa because the water was clearer, the coral 'better' and the fish and sharks more abundant in the pass. However, Rangiroa had 'The Aquarium' on a motu just inside of the pass that had more species of fish I didn't recognize nor could I find them in the dive cards I bought. Plus giant moray eels and sharks that would swim from the deep side of the motu to the reef and shallow area, pick off a fish, then retreat back to the deep side. Or as some would say, the 'dark side.' The Black Tipped sharks are very graceful and non-threatening and a treat to watch swim around, even swimming around us. The Giant Clams on both atolls were a sight to see, with the muscles being white, black, brown, purple, turquoise or blue in color."



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Up at 6:00 AM. Wild roosters were crowing all around our marina. You'd think we were in farm country with all the chatter.



At 6:34 AM two local fishing boats pulled up and deposit a crew member on our docks, to cast nets into the water. I'm sure they're not supposed to be on our docks, and fishing from marina docks in the US is frowned upon and usually prohibited.



At 6:45 PM Liz from Miss Liz II walked by and I chatted with her for a while. Her boat, a 50 footer in a berth next to us, was in the ARC from the Canary Islands to St. Lucia last November. They're having their boat shipped back to the UK in 2 weeks on a freighter. I talked to her husband later, name unknown, and when I asked him what the cost was to ship the boat back to the UK he said 12,000 Pounds, or $17,870. Later, Liz's young son, Lucas, brought us some perishable provisions that they didn't need anymore because they're flying home today. So we got some eggs, butter, mayonnaise and cheese.



Before breakfast the marina Wifi finally worked, so I was able to send out 2 logs and some emails.



Breakfast at 9:00 AM consists of 2 eggs, bacon, potato, chilled fruit cocktail and Cinnamon bread. Darlene had 2 bacons on a piece of bread with mayonnaise spread over it.



After breakfast we watered the boat; added fuel to the main tank, purchased 10 gallons of diesel fuel, checked out of the marina and purchased some final provisions. I walked over to Customs and Immigration and tried to clear out from Virgin Gorda instead of Jost Van Dyke, but was told I couldn't do so.



We departed the Spanish Town marina at 11:18 AM for the 24 mile trip to Jost Van Dyke Island. Because the wind is directly behind us, its going to be a motor sail. The channel we sail in is called the Francis Drake Channel. I consider Drake one of the most important sea captain in England's history. It was his policies that made England into an offensive sea power that helped it rule the seas for 200 or so years.



At 1:00 PM we jibed from port to starboard tack. We're motor sailing with the mainsail up only. The wind is 13 knots and we're motor sailing at 5.5 knots thru the water and 6.2 knots over the land. The engine is at 1,400 RPM's, the lowest RPM setting we use. There are a lot of sail boats moving around the islands. And we pass by some marinas and anchorages that have more boats in them than I've seen almost anywhere in the world. The charter business in the BVI is in full swing.



At 1:59 PM I saw either a very large fish or a ray jump 10 feet out of the water 1/4 mile behind our boat aft of the starboard beam.



The area we enter on Jost Van Dyke Island is called Great Harbor. It is loaded with boats, and after looking for a mooring ball we find none. However, on exiting the anchorage Darlene spots the only mooring ball left. I think a catamaran pulled out after we entered the anchorage, leaving the mooring ball available. Good eyes Darlene! By 2:50 PM we're 'on the ball.'



We then transfer 7 1/2 gallons of diesel into our main tank, then head into shore. I'm dropped off at Customs and Immigration while Joel and Darlene go to the fuel dock to refill the two empty jerry cans. Clearing out takes me 5 minutes and costs only $5.00. I have nothing smaller than a $100 bill. Oops. On the way to Foxy's Bar I stop at another beach side bar and talk with a couple from...I forget. Joel and Darlene join me later. We have one drink with them, then off to Foxy's. Once there we 'hang up' the signed World ARC poster on a wall just under the ceiling in the bar. The walls and ceilings are covered with license plates, T-shirts, flags and other momentous from sail and motor boat crews from around the world. I even see a red banner, 3' x 2', from the University of Tampa hung up on a wall. While in the bar I also meet 'Foxy,' an elderly black gentleman who owns Foxy's; and get my picture taken with him. On the wall of his store are pictures of him with James Michener and Tom Hanks.



At another store I see a T-shirt for sale that says on it: 'Happy Wife, Happy Life;' and shows a male prostrate in front of his wife. No truer saying have I ever read on a T-shirt. I meant to buy that T-shirt, but forgot to do so until we're back on the boat with the dingy put away. Maybe I can order it when I get home?



We're back on the boat around 5:30 PM. A short time later an employee of Foxy's stops by and I pay him $20.00 for being on the mooring ball for the night. The regular cost is $30.00, but he lowers the cost to $20.00 after I tell him how much money I spent in his bar/store. I bought a polo shirt, burgee, shot glass with 'Foxy's' on it, and a foam rubber drink holder with Foxy's on it.



Dinner at 6:00 PM is Rib-Eye steak and corn-on-the-cob cooked on the grill by chef Joel; garlic bread 'enhanced' and cooked in the oven by me; and spiced up green beans. It is a fabulous dinner, the last one we will have on the hook until we get to Florida.



After dinner we relax in the cockpit, watching the stars above and the lights glowing from all the islands surrounding us. The BVI is truly a sailor's paradise, with stops between islands a mere 2-4 hour day sail away. And with most of the anchorages having mooring balls, you don't even need to anchor. What's there not to like about that?



From 8:07 PM to 9:27 PM I type this log and some emails. Then its time to make a phone call home and maybe read a little before going to bed. Tomorrow is a travel day...to Florida. The horse is getting ready to head for the barn!



Brian Fox