can we help
+44(0)1983 296060
+1 757-788-8872
tell me moreJoin a rally

Menu

American Spirit II - Day 406; More (Bad) Carnival Stories & a Pounding on the Way to Recife; Monday, February 16, 2015



One year ago today:

"Day 44; Swimming with Hammerhead Sharks; Sunday, February 16, 2014. Up at 6:30 AM, for we had a trip to Kicker Rock, AKA Roca Pateadora. But first we were bussed to a beach, where we snorkeled amongst rocks and lots of fish,and saw two large turtles swimming. Our guide explained to us the difference between Sea Lions and Seals. Seal Lions have small ears and Seals have no visible ears; and their upper flippers are very strong, allowing them to go vertical more than a meter to climb up on rocks, boats, piers, etc. Seals don't have that upper body strength."

*********************************

Woke up at 4:00 AM. A 5:00 AM thunder storm got me out of bed. I went to the cockpit, closed the dodger center window and put the blue recliner chairs up under the dodger to keep them dry. Jeanine and Joel's towels, hanging on the lifelines to dry, were beyond hope. At 5:15 AM one of the two large motorized (Brazilian) catamaran's that take tourists to the islands in the bay, berthed across from us; powered up both of its diesel engines. Very noisy. Loud enough to wake the dead. Nice marina. Its very light out now with some blue sky visible in the fast approaching dawn. Its raining only moderately now, instead of a downpour like earlier.

Erling from Saphir stopped by at 10:10 AM and told Joel and me what happened to his group during Carnival. Like us, they purchased tickets to go to a protected balcony or area to watch the Carnival. Unlike us, they left their protected area to walk around before going back to the protected area. While on their walk 3 out of 6 persons in their group were robbed. Erling had 4 hands in his front and back pockets at the same time, looking for his money. Another person had a camera tethered to their belt or body somewhere, which was cut off. And a third person was elbowed in the face and a group of men pressed into the group of 6, disabling them from escaping. A large and muscular local man reached in and grabbed two of the group and pulled them to safety. I guess that was the end of the incident. Like us, this group was wearing their colored T-Shirts allowing them into the protected area. A sure sign of wealth. Like a target on your back. Who knew?


This morning Vlado stopped by and said that he had gone to an Internet cafe at 9:00 AM; and that when he left 3 men followed him. He was carrying a dry bag knapsack which had his computer in it. He 'lost' the group following him when he crossed a street in front of the marina and then turned back to look in their area. Not at them directly, just in their general direction. Vlado is a mountain climber, so he's no slouch. To target such a strong person takes b...

Salvador, ranked the 17th most dangerous city in the world, is living up to its reputation with the World ARC.

Reminiscing on our own robbery last Friday night, where we went to the Othon Palace Hotel balcony to watch the Carnival, I'd have done things differently knowing what I now know. For example, it was a mistake to keep wearing our colored T-Shirts and wrist bands when we left the hotel to walk the 1 1/2 miles to the taxi stand. We should have taken them off and stuffed them in our pockets. Instead of wearing my camera on my belt, I should have stuck it in the front of my pants, in my underwear. I should have taken off my $50 cheap looking Timex watch and put it in a zippered pocket on my shorts. We should have all walked closer together rather than spread out. (Of course that didn't help Erling's group).We could have waited for a police squad to walk by and then followed them in lock step. One person in our group, the one robbed, carried a shoulder bag. A mistake. This same person in our group carried a debit card in their wallet. A mistake. Leave all credit cards and debit cards on the boat.


Before lunch, we walked a couple hundred yards to a two story craft building to look at the shops inside and go to a restaurant. I bought some post cards showing the Carnival parade and the throngs of people; plus a couple of clothing items for 2 persons at home.

After lunch we paid the marina bill for two nights, as the first 5 were already paid by Rally Control (or were they free?). The marina slip fee was $21.17 per day. Not bad.


Once back at the boat we got ready to leave, and then departed the dock at 2:26 PM; heading to Recife, 392 miles away. We're hoping to be there in daylight Thursday. Civetta II left an hour or two ahead of us. Merlyn of Poole departed after we did. The three of us together are traveling to Recife; and will have our own net at 7:00 PM and 10:00 AM daily, starting tonight.

We roll out the sails with the wind at 17 knots on the nose. A port tack takes us just south of east, the wrong way to Recife, which is to the northeast. On the starboard tack we end up sailing back to the coast, not up the coast like we want. So we roll up the jib and turn the engine on, motor sailing at 1,600 RPM at a speed of 4.7 knots. With current, wind and waves against us, it will be a slow passage to our next destination. And with 3-5 foot waves on our bow, it will not be comfortable. The trip to Recife will be one of the longest we've had to date with the wind not behind us.

At 5:10 PM I saw a fishing skiff with a large yellow sail up, sailing towards Salvador. I kept an eye on him, making sure he was OK.

The sun set at 5:55 PM into a bank of clouds on the horizon. No green flash. Joel was taking a nap at this time.

At 7:00 PM I hosted the net, with Civetta II and Merlyn of Poole in attendance. Civetta II was motoring with no sail up and was 3 miles off the coast; about 2 hours ahead of us. Merlyn was sailing on port tack behind us; and we were motor sailing at 4.3 knots thru the water with an engine RPM of 1,600. Bumpy and uncomfortable. It was warm out; and many stars were visible. When white clouds would go by the wing would increase to 20 knots from 16/17.

I took a nap from 7:15 PM to 8:45 PM; and then stood the 9:00 PM to midnight watch.

Merlyn of Poole called at 8:50 PM to say that there were only making 2 1/2 knots;and asking how we were doing. Joel told him what we were doing; what our heading was and speed.

At 9:30 PM I called home as we were close enough to shore (6.7 nautical miles) to still have cell phone service. With my headphones on I could easily hear over the noise of the engine, wind and waves crashing.

At 9:47 PM I saw a fishing boat on our bow. We were gradually overtaking it. At 10:07 PM I turned 5 degrees to port to avoid the fishing boat; then turned back at 10:30 PM because the course I was on was taking me towards land. At 10:23 PM I saw another fishing boat on the starboard bow. None of these boats have red, green and white running lights. Just bright work lights. At 10:40 PM the fishing boat I'd been overtaking turned to starboard, slowed and then appeared to stop. Then it headed right for our starboard beam. I got a spot light out and shined it on our mainsail. It then stopped coming towards us and I left the boat behind.

At 11:00 PM a small rain shower, with a black cloud, passed behind us. The wind was 15/17 knots with an apparent wind of 19-23 knots.

At 11:35 PM we passed another lit up fishing boat to starboard, 500 yards away. Of course, none of these boats have AIS (Automatic Identification System). The shoreline and lights on shore were 6.7 miles away.

When I got Joel up for his 12:00 AM to 3:00 AM watch, he said that he had a little water dripping on his legs as he lay in the port main cabin quarter berth. He looked for the leak but couldn't find it. You get leaks like this when you take water over the bow, as we've been doing all day.

Just as Joel sat in the cockpit as I was bringing him his coffee, he saw a shooting star to starboard.

Brian Fox

Previous | Next