can we help
+44(0)1983 296060
+1 757-788-8872
tell me moreJoin a rally

Menu

Firefly - Hot Water Beach and Cathedral Cove, Mercury Bay



New Zealand's north island has been bathed in sunshine since the New Year and the good weather looks set to continue. After a week spent on Great Barrier Island Firefly took us south to the Coromandel Peninsula and we have cruised down the east side reaching as far south as Hot Water Beach, near a large town called Whitianga. Although the winds have been light there has been a continuous swell coming in from the east and despite our best efforts to find sheltered anchorages, we have not had a still night at anchor. With the weather very settled there is little wind about although with 'Windguru' (their forecasts are the best out here) and a good internet connection we have managed to find just enough to sail, albeit quite slowly on most occasions.



Hot Water Beach was a highlight as expected, with the Lonely Planet rating it as one of the World's top ten beaches. It was very scenic but the 'rating' was probably due to the novelty value of the hot water that emerges from around the rocks in one area of the beach at low tide. Firefly was left anchored off and we rowed ashore and had yet another adrenalin filled landing ashore in the surf. Clearly a lot of other people had been reading the Lonely Planet or similar guides as it was heaving on the beach. As it was approaching low water, drones of people were heading from the car park with their hired shovels ready to dig themselves a natural jacuzzi in the sand where the hot water emerges.



On our first pass we could not find any space at all as there were so many frantic people of all nationalities trying to dig themselves a hole to sit in. Thinking we had the answer we paddled into one area that was free of people only to find the water was practically boiling! After an ice cream and some re consideration we entered the fray again. Some people had obviously had enough and had vacated a perfectly dug out hole that we grabbed and enjoyed for about 20 minutes before it got too hot.



Heading towards Whitianga our next stop was at another tourist attraction, Cathedral Cove. The actual cove was obscured from view at the overnight anchorage although there were several heavily sculpted rock stacks on the beach, so we were confident it was the right place. In the morning a dinghy ride ashore revealed an impressive large tunnel through a section of headland jutting into the sea, with a high roof reaching an apex - Cathedral like. Whitianga Marina was our next overnight stop and from there we walked to 'The Lost Springs Spa'. Entry into this 'Disneyland style' swimming spa, heated by geothermal water from 667 meters below the surface, was reasonably expensive. Therefore, although it was on the tourist trail, it was somewhat more exclusive than Hot Water Beach, not at all busy and very relaxing.



From Whitianga we sailed to Opito Beach and anchored amongst about ten NZ yachts, thinking that they must know that this place was sheltered from the swell. A great walk on the beach was followed by a BBQ on board and then just as we were settling down for the night the swell re appeared and Firefly again rocked us to sleep. Mercury Island, private and owned by NZ businessman and NZ Americas Cup supporter, Michael Faye was the next destination. Quite similar to the Scilly Islands to look at, there were a good number of yachts around the island but no tourist boats go there. Access ashore was allowed and it was deserted, the walking and views were superb.



Today is Saturday 17th January, and Firefly is just approaching Motokahaua or Happy Jack's Island after a gentle sail south form Port Jackson. The plan is to stop overnight at Elephant Cove and to some snorkeling here. The temperature of the sea water is increasing as most of the bays are shallow so we have started to do some swimming at last, something we have missed since arriving here from the Tropics.



Paul and Susie

Previous | Next