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Exody - Days 133 -138: Skirts and Pigs



........are the most obvious distinguishing characteristics of the Kingdom of Tonga as compared with previous islands - the general ambience and level of development closest in nature to the independent West Indian island states. Pigs evident on the streets, on the beach and in many gardens and yards. Skirts - locally called a tupenu - worn by schoolboys and men. Often superimposed by an uncomfortable looking heavy woven straw wrap, the purpose of which we are yet to deduce!



We arrived mid morning Thursday 28th May at the town of Neiafu on Vava'u the northernmost of three island groups making up the country. We had lost 24 hours on the 250 mile passage from Niue, crossing the international dateline about halfway at 172 degrees and 30 minutes west so Wednesday 27th disappeared in a trice as we are now twelve hours ahead as opposed to twelve behind UK time. Our final approach in the early hours of Thursday morning reminded me of rounding the Mull of Kintyre- a headland looming out of the rainy clouds, a grey following sea with multiple white horses, 20- 25 knot winds and Marian at the helm clad in foul weather gear! We had been sailing close with Wayward Wind all night on double reefed main alone and then Luna Quest appeared closing to starboard having been at sea for two weeks on a direct passage from Bora Bora, whilst the rest of the fleet had stopped at either or both of Suwarrow and Niue. This was the last of a three-stage leg and consequently many of the fleet were now re-converging after many days apart- we had about eight boats in view on the first of the two nights at sea and, as I write, all boats are now in Tonga - except for Pentagram on the hard in Raiatea since the owners are now crewing on another boat. We managed to sail all the way to the finish line close tacking to ease our way around Kitu Islet.



We had continued to enjoy a generous welcome in Niue being hosted to a genuine feast on the evening of Saturday 23rd May by the Alofi North community. Excellent food plus local music and dancing, much of it energetically led by a diminutive 77 year old lady who never let her infectious smile drop for a minute and allowed few of the World ARC males to avoid dancing!



Commodore Keith took us on an island tour Sunday 24th, with exploration of some of the multiple magnificent caves and chasms that make up the perimeter of the island - a stunning and fairly unique geography. Landside there is much evidence of the dwindling population (circa 6000 45 years ago, now circa 1500) with the abandoned homesteads sadly lying derelict and dilapidated. Fortunately tourism is on the increase so there is a prospect of more activity to support the economy and population. Our tour ended at the characterful Washaway Cafe - honour system for drinks, write your own food order- where we enjoyed simple fare for a good lunch overlooking the sea.



The Monday task list included a visit to the hospital- relocated a few years ago to the highest point on the island - following cyclone damage to its shore-side predecessor - and a good 6km bicycle ride for us. We got some of the routine drugs we both sought following a consultation and then cycled back in continuous rain. We made family phone calls from Telecom Niue, bought our final supplies and diesel fuel and departed along with most of the fleet within a couple of hours of sunset.



The anchorage here at Neiafu, Tonga is a perfect natural one and is consequently home to a small seven vessel Moorings charter fleet plus moorings for about fifty yachts. There are several cafes, restaurants and other services set up for the passing yachtie trade. New Zealand flagged boats are much in evidence and we have also met up with two UK boats that are rejoining the World ARC in Fiji after 12 month stopovers visiting New Zealand.



Clearances in were helpfully organised by World ARC at the local Mango Cafe so we avoided the standard procedure requiring us to moor alongside the commercial wharf. The same cafe and its neighbour Aquarium Cafe have had much business over the last few days as the fleet pursue internet, cold beers, internet, coffees,internet and shoreside meals! Today we made a visit to the open market and a couple of shops, including the Dirt Teeshirt outlet (www.tongadirtshirts.com) amongst the Saturday bustle. The heavens opened at lunchtime and stayed that way for three or four hours of torrential downpour as we coaxed our way through internet transactions on the overloaded cafe hotspot. For me this was mainly online ordering to burden our next crew arriving in a month's time at Fiji. We are pleased that our younger daughter has finally confirmed that she too will come for the Fiji to Vanuatu leg - meaning we will be five-up - quite cosy for Exody!



But before that we still have over a week to explore Tonga and the multiple anchorages within easy reach of Neiafu.



Peter (Skipper)


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