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Aretha - Fatu Hiva, Marquesa Islands



It’s been 5 days now since we arrived in the Marquesa Islands.

I have to say I think we are deeply touched by the warmth of the people here in the Marquesa’s. It’s like nothing we’ve experienced before and it is truly calm and peaceful here. I’ll elaborate more as I write.

We arrived and made landfall at 530 am on the 24th March. It’s always stunning to see the mountains rising out of the sea and to smell land again after some 3,000 miles and 20 days at sea. In fact the first thing we noticed was the rich smell of the land as we approached - the smell of vegetation and moisture in the air - so distinctive and evident even before we sighted land.

We were welcomed by Makena who helped up lay a stern anchor - in the anchorage, Traitors Bay in Hiva Oa, you need to anchor the bows and stern as it’s a tiny anchorage and there is a lot of tide. As we anchored, we saw a huge manta ray jump clean out of the water. Once anchored, we dinghied ashore to the concrete quay. It’s quite dangerous as there is a strong undertow and you need to anchor the stern as well as tie up on the quay. Ashore, we were given garlands, fresh fruit and lemonade and were met by the agent who arranged for our entry procedures to the Marquesas. The informality of customs and immigration contrasts sharply with the mountain of paperwork and forms required for Galapagos and Panama.

For the next 4 days we spent time in Hiva Oa and the local village of Atuona. The population of the Island is only around 2,000 people and everyone is incredibly friendly. You walk 10 metres down the road and someone stops to give you a lift. You chat (all in French) and they are warm and welcoming and full of advice and help.

The main village is 2 miles from the quay where we docked (the only facility there is a petrol station which also helpfully sells fresh baguettes and some food). The first day I had to visit the doctors - I got a lift one way from our agent - on the way back, another patient, Joseph who I chatted to in the surgery drove me back. I can’t imagine that happening for a second back at home. The village is tiny - one bar, one doctors, 3 shops, 2 banks and yet is the largest settlement in the Marquesas’s. Life here is relaxed and laid back - no-one is in a hurry.

On two early mornings Nichola and I went running at 6am - a true pleasure to watch the sunrise and appreciate the beauty of these islands - they are like the mountains that surround you in ski resort, only they covered with lush green vegetation. The tops of the mountains are tipped with clouds that cover the sharp jagged rocks that mark the peaks. We stretched one morning by the coastguard station - a large brown container with a trestle table on one of the headlands. Calm, peaceful and spiritual.

Day 3 saw us horse riding in the mountains with a local guide, Pakou. There were 4 of us - Nichola, me and a young French couple on their honeymoon (tourists via plane are extremely rare here). For 4 hours, we walked, trotted and galloped along roads, through ancient forests and along mountain ridges. It was extreme riding and you had to be alert going up and down 45 degree hills and ducking under low lying trees. Neither of us are experienced riders and the challenge was exhilarating. The forests and views from the ridges were simply stunning - the feeling is of very untouched and ancient lands - truly spiritual and like nothing I’ve experienced before.

For 3 of our afternoons in Hiva Oa, we went to Alex’s place. Alex is ex French Foreign Legion and was also involved in the nuclear testing at Murora Atoll. His bar/ house is high in the mountains and taxi drivers are unable to get their vehicles up there as the road is so steep.You have to call Alex and he collects you / drops you off afterwards in his specially adapted off road vehicle. Once there, you have open access to the bar and the pool - you just remember what you had and pay for it later. Hungry? His wife cooks a meal and you pay a fixed price for whatever she is cooking - our favourite was the salad with carrot, mango, avocado and lemons (all freshly grown in his garden). Bluebell and Columbus quickly made friends with his daughter Ko-Hai and loved playing with her. When they brought us back to the boat on the last day, the whole family came down to wave us off and sent us with bags full of fresh lemons, avocados and pamplemousse (grapefruit).

On our last evening in Hiva Oa, the local town put on a dance on the quay by the boats. Music, dancing and a buffet of local food including Poisson Cru (raw fish and vegetables), Breadfruit and many other local delicacies. The dancing was truly amazing - expertly choreographed and performed. It felt like a true local experience rather than a tourist experience, not least as of the 150 people there, only 20 or so were visitors to the Island.

Yesterday saw us sail 45 miles in sunny light sailing conditions to the Bay of Virgins in Fatu Hiva. Again as we anchored, a huge manta ray jumped clean out of the water. We are reluctant to swim here as there are many sharks around the Islands including Great Whites, Tiger Sharks, Hammerheads and Grey sharks amongst others. Some of the yachts have reported fins swimming around the boats.

We awoke early surrounded by the mountains here and you can see why this is a must visit spot. Words fail me to describe how stunning it is. It is simply outstanding. We went ashore just before 8 and being Palm Sunday we went to the local church where a procession had just led into. We were ushered in through a side door to sit with the local children at the front. Now, I’m not religious, but the experience was amazing. The passion and energy of the singing and music with guitars and drums sent a shiver down your spine. For 2 hours all 6 of us shared the experience with the locals (we were the only tourists there). This is a village with only c600 people living here and everyone is warm and friendly.

We have been invited to the house tonight of Desiree, Katia and Jacque for supper. They are cooking for us and are charging us c 10 Euro’s a head for the evening. Again, an experience you wouldn’t get at home.

On the way back, I traded a bottle of wine (clearly in demand) for a large fruit bowl, which we’ll get later. Life is basic and simple.

We are well, happy and well rested. Without doubt, this is our number 1 spot in all our travels. It’s stunning, low key, friendly and just a very relaxed place to be.

Next stop is Nuku HIva for a week or so and then from there to the Tuamotos.

Team Aretha, Out,

PS We are considering taking on an extra crew member in May for our time in the Pacific. Any interest, please let us know.



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