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Karma Wins - Marquesas and Tuamotos



Fakarava in the Tuamoto Islands

We had a few days in Hiva Oa. The anchorage was bouncy and all yachts
had to have a stern anchor otherwise there might have been a few bumps
in the night. The dinghy dock was always eventful, either the tide was
out and we had to clamber up onto the pontoon, or the tide was in and
there was a big swell and we inevitably got wet. The dinghies also had
to have a stern anchor out and so it was a bit of a muddle extracting
one dinghy from the others. Barry’s anchor rope was chafed through one
evening but fortunately it was a floating rope so he found it the next
morning.

Andy, Emma (from Pentagram), Per and I had a morning horse-riding on
tough 14 hand stallions. It was a wonderful way to explore the interior
as we rode along ridges, through the forest and back down a dry river
bed. We did a day tour across the island and visited some of their
archaeological sights and tikis which was fascinating as Pifa, our
guide, was very informative about the Polynesian culture. The scenery
and views are so spectacular, vivid green everywhere, as it rains
regularly and blue seas in the distance. Our guide stopped at his
grandfather’s ranch and cut us all a big bunch of bananas; so all the
yachts had banana bunches hanging in their stern.

Karma Wins sailed to the nearby island, Tahuata with Victor, rally
control, on board. We anchored in a bay surrounded by steep-sided
mountains and a little village nestled underneath. As dusk approached
the wind came rushing over the side of the mountains and it was quite
wild. Per had put a line out with a chewy bit of beef as bait and
caught 2 tasty fish. We gave one to Cameron, a very helpful Hawain, who
gave us all good advice about the area. We had a horrible blustery
night with the yachts swinging round and round and creaking on the
anchor chains. One of the cats had to move in the middle of the night.
In the morning we were taken by water taxi to the next village for a
traditional Marquesan feast and to watch the dancing and the musicians.
The Polynesians love their music and dancing so really seemed to enjoy
performing for us. The feast was wonderful, pig roasted overnight in a
pit and a wide variety of local vegetables and bananas cooked in coconut
milk. Poor Barry had had to rush back to Karma Wins as 2 of the cats
were drifting on their anchors. He motored her round to a nearby much
quieter anchorage and we had a more peaceful night’s sleep.

We picked up Victor and set sail for the Tuamotos. Victor arrived with
another bunch of bananas and a sack full of limes, oranges and
grapefruit. Karma Wins had to get a few miles from the island before we
could pick up any wind. We had a wonderful few days easy sailing, quite
flat seas and only the odd squall at night. One night, when Victor and
Per were changing watch at 2 am, they had a squall and the winds went up
to 27 knots so they had to quickly furl the gennaker. It was a full
moon and one night we had an amazing total eclipse of the moon, looking
through the binoculars she was totally red.

We arrived at Garuae Pass into Fakarava just before dawn so had to motor
around for a few hours and were joined by Wayward Winds. Travelling
through the pass into the lagoon was easy as Barry kept close into the
port side and we avoided most of the turbulence. Once into the lagoon
the sea is flat calm and the coral reefs are a turquoise blue. We
anchored close to Rotoava town, beside a little coral reef. As we
anchored a yellow turtle drifted past peering at us occasionally and we
can smell the flowers ashore. The anchorage is so peaceful and we are
all feeling incredibly relaxed. We can just fall of the back of Karma
wins for a refreshing swim, snorkel out to the reef, feed the fish
which have joined us or just look at the view. We can also hear the
waves breaking on the outside of the reef and in certain places the land
is so low you can see the white water.

The village is quite small but they have a big sports area and seem to
be playing football, netball, basketball and any other ball game all day
and every day! The shops are only open for a few hours so shopping has
to be planned. The supply boat came in yesterday so there is been a few
cabbages and tomatoes to buy. The bread is all baguettes and, as we
don’t eat a whole loaf in a day, we are getting used to chewing on
rather tough bread. As we ate breakfast this morning a manta ray came
and played around near the stern but not quite close enough to jump in
and join it.

We then motored sailed to the other end of the lagoon, following a
beautiful coast line, white sands, green palm trees and turquoise and
blue seas. After 4 hours sailing Karma Wins arrived at Tamakohua Pass,
at the other end of the lagoon. As we dropped the anchor, yellow
black-tipped reef sharks and other large fish came to investigate.
In the morning Victor went diving and I went snorkelling to the beach.
There were numerous colourful fish around the coral outcrops. On the
way back, just as I was checking the anchor, 6 reef sharks came swirling
round. I did feel a bit intimidated especially when they swam straight
at me, so made for the back of the boat but they actually have quite
benign faces and eyes . We then moved Karma Wins to the pink sands
anchorage, Paherehava. We had to go carefully as there are reefs
everywhere but the sun was in the best position to see them and we had a
lovely anchorage on sand. We all went for a snorkel and to explore the
little islands and estuaries. At 4pm we motored up to join a few of the
other boats at Hirifa. We had a walk in the overgrown coconut
plantations and a snorkel in the small lagoon where we followed a ray.

Last night we took the dinghy to the village on the other side of the
pass. Barry needed to re-stock with beer and is trying to get Victor to
replenish the stocks that he has drunk out of the fridge. Beer, like
everything here, is not cheap. Victor is still with us but might jump
ship any day. We managed to get stuck on the reef so I had to get out
and wade, pulling the dinghy, while Barry and Per paddled. There is a
bar/restaurant on stilts over the edge of the pass and there were plenty
of black-tipped reef sharks and fish swimming gently round. The variety
of fish is immense and they are all so colourful and curious and so is
the coral. We are having another day snorkelling, swimming and chilling
and leave for Tahiti tomorrow.

Sorry to make you all jealous chrissy



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