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Jumbuck - ARC Baltic Leg 6 - St Petersburg Russia to Helsinki Finland



We slid out of the Central River Yacht Club at 0800 Sunday, one of the first boats to stagger our departure on the voyage back westward to Finland.

Wending out way out of the Neva River, and across the deep water channels towards Kronstadts gateway out to the Gulf of Finland, the light early morning breeze felt really fresh and despite again setting sail under blazing sun, it was nicely cooler than it had ever felt in St Petersburg.

Clearing out at Kronstadt involves a visit to the customs police in their office upstairs, completion of a declaration that we were exporting our boat from Russia along with other exit documents, then a visit to the boat by two immigration officers who checked every locker, even the engine, before they too wanted another declaration signed stating we were not carrying any stowaways, then finally a visit to the border guards who inspected passports and stamped us out. And tell us we then had 15 minutes to untie and go, or we would need to repeat the procedure!

All the while this was happening a steady stream of rally boats was arriving from St Petersburg, and beginning to stack up in a queue. Guess we got away about 1130 Russian time, and shaped up our course through the big ship channels that feed the traffic east and west between St Petersburg and international waters. Our first waypoint was a marine roundabout east of Russia's Gogland island, from where you are permitted to exit the traffic lanes to lay Haapasaari Island, the most easterly Finnish check in point.

It was a motor sail the whole way, about 90 miles, with us managing to average 6.5 knots and being overtaken every couple of hours by bigger fellow rally boats charging past with engines going flat chat. We finally slid around our last bit of Russian authority on a frontier boat sitting close by the marine border - with waves being traded - to close the Finnish archipelago. The low rocky tree covered islands slowly grew out of the seas as we approached them in the dark.

Funny, but suddenly it seems the 'white nights' are ending. This night it was quite tricky picking out the unlit channel marks to follow and reach the coastguard dock.

We had been told the coastguard office closed at 2100, but seems earlier arriving rally boats had advised them of lots of arrivals, so they extended opening hours until 2400. We just made it in time and had our ropes taken by a couple of quiet but friendly big officials.

I was a tad surprised when they breathalysed me (trying to find if I was drunk enough to enter Finland, I guess) whilst another chappie took away ships papers and passports for checking, but it seems the constant state of tension on this border, coupled with the Scandawegian no drink ethic, leads to some focussed attention on people who arrive after dark. Certainly the couple of coast guards who welcomed us had a distinctly military air about them....along with some very big guns.

But once that was done, off we went feeling our way through some very narrow channels to wind our way into Haaspasaari's land enclosed lagoon, where we rafted up to 'Salt' a 50' Swedish rally boat, and crashed.

It was only in the morning and daylight, that we could see the lagoon around us studded with boulders sticking up in the sea. Not the best place to manoeuvre after dark!

We spent Monday morning walking the island, and ferried water by container onto Jumbuck, replacing the dodgy Russian stuff we had taken in St Petersburg.

We didn't have to reach Helsinki until Wednesday, so spent the rest of Monday and Tuesday wending our way westward through the stunning Finnish SE Archipeligo. Thousands of islands, many with a wooden holiday home, jetty and flagpole, and many more totally uninhibited.

Clear salt free water made swimming a joy, and we anchored overnight in company with a few of the other rally boats. Got a lot of sun on the trip over from St Petersburg, so bodies gone dark red before now browning off. The waters warm on the surface, but the chilly stuff a metre or so down felt great on my sunburn.

Now in Helsinki at the NJK Club close by the city centre. Busy place, lots of water traffic but we are on an island so it's all happening around our little oasis of calm. Great facilities, and superb stylish old restaurant where we had a fabulous crew dinner last night. 

Apologies for any typing errors - my brain, stumpy fingers, and iPad don't always work in harmony!

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