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American Spirit II - Day 86; Arrived in Nuku Hiva, First Sunrise Green Flash and Wifi Day at the Snack Shop; Sunday, March 30, 2014



Mike woke me at 5:30 AM as we were 10 miles from Nuku Hiva. The sun rose at 5:52 AM and for the first time in my life I saw a Green Flash at sunrise. I wasn't looking for the flash, it just happened. Green Flash number 6 on our trip. With sunset at 5:50 PM the night before and sunrise at 5:52 AM the days and nights are equal in time. That's what being near the equator is like.

At 6:56 AM about a dozen dolphin approached the boat from in front of us. What was unusual about them was that as they approached they all seemed to jump out of the water in unison as they approached the boat. Like soldiers in perfect lockstep.

We entered Baie de Taiohae in Nuku Hiva at 7:00 AM. As we entered the bay, there were two large rock formations on each side of the bay's entrance: Sentinelle de l'ouest on the left; and Sentinelle de l'est on the right. The baie or bay is left over from a volcano and the rock formation around the bay is called a caldera. A town surrounds the far end of the bay.

As we were anchoring at 7:15 AM, two shark fins appeared 50 feet away from our boat to the port or left side. The fins moved back and forth like the owners of the fins were looking for something...to eat. Some of our pilot books talk about 'large' sharks inhabiting the waters of the Marquesas. This is what they mean. Some people on another boat told Tim and Tracy Ramsey of Follie a Deux that it was not safe to swim in the bay before 10:00 AM and after 4:00 PM because the sharks were feeding during those time periods. The boat was finished anchoring by 7:30 AM. The trip from Fatu Hiva to Hiva Oa to Nuku Hiva had taken 22 1/2 hours. A short motor sail.

After eating breakfast we inflated the dingy, put it in the water, added the motor to the dingy transom and then I took Alex to the dingy dock with his gear.

At 10:43 AM another shark fin was observed 50 feet behind our boat. What is interesting is that we were not sitting in the cockpit looking out into the water for sharks. We just saw them out of the sides of our eyes. I suspect if we were looking at the bay continuously that we'd see many more shark fins swimming by the boat. Since our waterline has collected some more algae it means cleaning the algae off of the hull above and below the waterline is going to have to be done with a constant eye out for the sharks. Furthermore, we'll have to lie parallel and alongside the boat when doing so to keep our appendages from dangling below the boat. Though the water is clear, its not clear enough because the bottom is muddy,not sandy. In 30 feet of water with coral all around and a sandy bottom we could see 100 feet. Here we can't.

From 12 Noon to 5:20 PM we sat at the snack shop by the dingy shop, outdoors under a canopy,using the free Wifi. First time in 3 months that we had good, free Wifi. Usually when its free its not so good, is slow or is hard or impossible to connect to. Joel and I went thru our emails. I had 298 of them. My favorite was a face book picture of Janet holding Simon and Harley, the two newest cats to our household, and the dozen roses in the background sent by yours truly. Thank God for satellite phones.

After returning to the boat, we had blackened chicken, baked potatoes, fruit cocktail and French bread for dinner. I added the spices to the chicken while Joel cooked it on the outside propane grill at the transom. I know I've said so before, but it bears repeating. Joel is a good grill cook.

After dinner we watched two more episodes of The Sopranos, then to bed at 9:30 PM. Both Joel and Mike didn't get much sleep last night. I at least got about 5 hours worth.

Brian Fox



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