The ARC April 15,2012
So two weeks ago we were in Hiva Oa, our first island in the Marquesas. The largest and the main island of the four islands of this Archipelago, where we enjoyed the friendly French speaking people. After five enjoyable days we moved on to another island, Tahuata, only four miles south of Hiva Oa. We entered a beautiful deserted Bay called Hanamoeboa Bay, as we turn the corner and saw the pristine beach lined with coconut trees we couldn't wait to jump in the clear blue water. We spent the whole day swimming and some cleaning the sides of the boat and exploring the beach.
So The second day we had high hopes of spending another day in the water.
Dave was in the water early as we watched him swimming around we saw several large Manarays, their wings spread out, had to of feet wide. Then we watched a 5 foot shark swim under the boat, Dave got out of the water and we all watched it hang around for quite a while, so Dave got back in the water with the water camera, as he was snapping a couple of good shots, we all yelled Second shark, it had to of been 10-12 feet long.
We all laughed at Dave as he came flying up the ladder, he never moved so fast. And we thought we had the perfect anchorage.
So it's time to move on, next stop is Ua Pou, pronounced wapoo. This diamond shape island with mountain tops is about 10 miles long and 7 miles wide, and very green.
So we sail about 50 miles north west and as we are entering the anchorage. In the evening we have two local guys in Kayaks with one out rigger on the left side, paddling hard trying to ride our wake smiling and waving at us. We find several ARC sailboats already there, when we radio them, they inviteus to go into town for dinner.
After talking to the gang, we decide it's best to move on to Nuku Hiva.
Good Friday is coming, that leaves only a day to fuel up the boat and buy food, unless we want to stay until the following Wednesday, as the town closes up for days for Easter. So Wednesday morning we sail 25 miles north to Nuku Hiva, where again you have to have a bow and stern anchor.
We see the gas dock and watch a catamaran back up for fuel. Nothing like the present to tackle this and get it over with. There is still four of us on board, as Dave dropped the Bow anchor 2 hundred feet in front of the fuel dock and then set it.
We then have three lines ready to throw as Steve maneuvers the boat, backing up, fighting a ferocious current hitting us on the side. Eve throws one line, while I throw the two lines on the high end. With the bow line holding,
It saves the stern of the boat from slamming up against the tall cement wall.
Unlike some of the ARC boats, we left happy.
So we anchor here in Nuku Hiva and drop the dingy to go ashore in the town of Taiohae. This town is the administrative capital and the largest town in the Marquesas. It lies in the open remains of a Volcanic crater with the caldera walls surrounding the town. at the dingy dock we have outside cafe's, fresh produce stand, little shops to look in, and yacht services............We can get used to this, all the conveniences right at the dock, no walking 2 miles for everything.
Lots of ARC boats here, plenty of information by everyone who has been here for a while. So here we got our propane tanks filled with butane, and no change in fittings are needed, the Internet was pretty good, so we got our taxes done and sent. I even was able to send half the pictures that I am trying to get on the ARC site, so take a look at those in gallery.
So here in Nuku Hiva there isn't much going on, except it's beautiful to look at. The mountain tops with many different peaks reach 4000 feet high. Everything is very convenient, and lots of friends to hang out with.
We all liked Henry's cafe called Vaeaki Cafe the best. Henry loved talking to us and joking around while learning English, he was pretty good at it. Henry even drove us around if we wanted to get over to the other side of the anchorage, a little to far to walk. We hung out a lot with boats At Last and Zoe. We all jumped on Zoe and sailed 5 miles to another anchorage and dingyed ashore for a beautiful afternoon hike deep in the hills towards the 2000 foot water falls. Our trail followed a river that we had to cross. We also came across an archeological Site, a Large Marae which is a ceremonial platform made from huge basalt block, which was used only by priests and chieftains for worship , burials and sometime human sacrifices. We made sure we stayed in groups, as we did walk pass a few homes along the way.
So as we walked the main street in Nuku Hiva we found a Tiki Park along the water, with about 20 individual TIKI's (old rock statues) each sitting on a base. See pictures.
We also found a large beautiful Catholic Church up the street with several other buildings around it. Lots of 6 to 8 foot tall wood carvings of Christ at the doorways. Zoe, At Last, & Southern Cross boats once again,our fun little group decide we have to go to Easter Mass. We all cleaned up real nice, not in our bathing suits,dingy into town for 8 am mass. So heres the 12 of us taking up one whole pew surrounded by the locals, most dressed up in clean white and tropical print clothes. The priest with 6 alter boys and 2 men all dressed in long white robes, come parading out with candles in there hands. We all stand up and start singing a familiar hym, in a polynican language,
We are all looking at each other, thinking WOW, and then to top that off the drums start playing to the hym. It was a beautiful one hour service in French and Polynesian.
On one of the last days here, Steve and I venture up to the nice Hotel Keikahanui Pearl Lodge, it's located on the west side of the anchorage way up top the mountain.
What a spectacular view it has. We ordered lunch and jumped in the infinity pool over looking the anchorage (see pictures) , while waiting for our food, two of Zoe's crew walk up, Brit and Kelsey. But they don't have their bathing suits, it's so beautiful here, and they want to jump in so bad, they radio Ed, The Captain of Zoe, he brings their suits and Joel with him and stays. In the mean time we already called At Last, and told them they should stop working on their boat and come enjoy this. Surprising Mark put his tools down and brought Janet for a fun afternoon off, which Janet was sure happy about.
It's sunset and we are still here by the pool with wine in hand, and they have a nice restaurant. We've got to eat here! There's eight of sitting boy, girl, all talking and laughing at once. Everyone ordered something different. When our dinner arrived,It all looked and smelled sooo good.
We all agreed, it was a fantastic day and evening, great food and great friends.
The last morning here , it's Eve's Birthday and there is a very nice breakfast birthday , at where else, but Henry's. Everyone showed up for a very nice spread of fruits and crepes.
It's Wednesday 11th of April and we need to leave Marquesas and start making our way towards Tahiti . Our next stop will be Tuamotu Islands. First stop there is Manihi. They call these Islands Atolls which means an island consisting of a circular coral reef surrounding a lagoon. But theses lagoons we are seeing , are 10 to 100 miles large.
We sailed 480 miles and arrived Sunday morning, it was a great sail the first 2 days. We had 15 knots of wind on a beam reach, after that the wind dropped down to 5 knots so we motored on the last day.
They are known for farming black pearls. But many of these black pearls are not perfectly round, they are perfectly smooth but very uneven.
There is no Internet here, sorry this Log will be 3 days late.
There isn't much here. We dingyed over to a deserted part and explored and walked to the North side where there were 3-4 ft waves. The water is so clear you can see the fish in the waves. It's like looking through a clean glass window it's so clear.
Then we dingyed out to deeper water and Snorkeled along a coral wall. Saw lots of bright color fish and one big Morey Eal about 2 feet long. We are now seeing Morey Eals at least as Six Feet long swimming, not Hiding in rocks.
The crew, Kathy , Steve , Dave & Eve
Correction on picture of water falls . It's two thousand feet, not 20000.