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Voyageur - Log day 271 - About turn!



2 April 2011

We were up and away by 7am, half an hour behind Tzigane. David had had a poor night's sleep, the anchor kept growling and grinding on the rocky bottom. I slept in the cockpit and fared better but did wake on several occasions as great gusts of wind spun us around. Our anchor came up clean as a whistle. Very unusual. I think we had been hanging on to a rock all night. As we sailed up the lee of the island great gusts would come sweeping down the mountains to be followed by nothing. One minute we would be cracking along at over seven knots, the next under four. Five miles on we noticed the water under the floor filling much more quickly. If you remember, the problem had started a few days out from Brazil but provided we did not slam into the waves it was just a case of mopping the locker out every day. Now it was definitely more serious. We called John and he confirmed that the seas were much rougher up ahead so we felt we had no choice but to return to Port Louis Marina. They carried on and we arranged to keep in touch via SSB radio once we were out of range on the VHF. Both their toilets had packed up and we agreed to buy the spare parts in the chandlery once back at Port Louis. Amel have a system that allows you to change the seal while still afloat. David had never done this before always preferring to do it on dry land. Now we had to put it to the test. Out came the manual and as we headed back towards Port Louis David read through the instructions very carefully.

As we came into St George's harbour the wind was blowing hard, gusting to thirty knots. A quick call to the marina over the VHF to say we were on our way in and please could we have an alongside berth. They responded straightaway. Within minutes we were safely berthed on the pontoon reserved for superyachts. Well, we think we are a super yacht! The staff here are so very helpful and immediately contacted a diver for us. One hour later Mitchell turned up to assist. There was no need for him to dive, a mask and snorkel was sufficient. David lowered the bow thruster with the line attached and Mitchell eased it up out of the water. Ten minutes later with the new seal fitted he guided it gently back in. Easy. The old seal looked fine and really we could not see anything untoward with it but David explained that they can stretch. Anyway tomorrow we head once more for the open sea and Carriacou and will know for sure if the problem is solved.

It is always so very windy and now I know the answer. One theory put forward was the earthquake and tsunami in Japan but really that seemed a little too far fetched. Mitchell put us straight. He described it as the 'Kite' season. Apparently it is always windy in April and certainly we do get the April showers that we get back home. The showers are short lived but the wind a tad more persistent. A big new Oyster 60 something, fresh out of the box, and here for the Oyster regatta in two weeks time, berths on the opposite pontoon, home port Glasgow! But what a tattered ensign they fly. Even ours is in better nick and it has done over 40,000nm. If they can afford to pay two delivery crew to sail their boat here then they can surely buy a new ensign. Stravaig of Argyll, home port Dundee however, is as neat as a new pin.....

Susan Mackay


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