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La Boheme - 1 March 2009



It all started with the organized venue for the "famous" Recife carnival. We went to see the famous parades but all we saw were backs and heads of the thousands of local spectators, unbelievable noise, heat and cheap plastic tables and chairs, which were gone the moment you got up. All this for a mere 150 R. per head - the rip-off of the century! Not only that the promised view from the balcony was never delivered, but the "Legionnaires Disease" was looming. The cooling in this shack was provided by hosing dirty water over a series of huge fans, thus spraying millions of bacteria across everyone. Unlucky for Greg, weakened already by food poisoning in Salvador, he developed sore throat followed by severe infection of his upper respiratory track.

We left Recife on Thursday (26/2), heading for Tobago and Grenada. Yesterday morning (28/2), after fixing genoa which got stack when we tried to avoid near collision with a ship at night, the wind died and when we put the engine on, it also died after a few minutes. Greg and Ben inspected the engine and found that the gear box flange, originally held by four bolts, had only one bolt in place with the other three sheared and the whole part violently shook. Unfortunately, not fixable at sea. We may need to get a new part from Amel.

So, no wind, no engine and we were approx 200 miles from Fortaleza and 1800 miles from Tobago. The heat was unbelievable as we were bobbing around, surrounded by the oily sea without a ripple. Greg is sick and we are drifting backwards. We have enough water and food, but heading for the Caribbean across ITCZ stretch looks less likely. In the evening, 5 miles behind where we were in the morning, we decide to go for Fortaleza, as the area around the entrance to the port is shallow enough for us to drop the anchor to stop and wait in relative safety for a tow. The decision filled us with positive energy, in the worst case scenario the trip may take 4-6 days or 2 days, depending on wind.

At the time of writing we have 120 miles to go. Fingers crossed, we may get to Fortaleza tomorrow morning.

Anna, Greg, Ben and Gosia
La Boheme


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