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Cleone - in the Great Barrier Reef - Part 3 - Escape to Horn Island



We went in, escaped, and fair flew to Horn Island.
 
As planned, we pulled into the Escape River mid-morning; overnight progress had been fast and furious, with the wind gusting at over 30 knots behind us.  The river entrance was wide, there was more water than expected and we found none of the reported hazards.  But when we reached the recommended anchorage, just off the Pearl Farm, the wind was howling across the estuary and the anchorage was beset by little black buoys marking the pearl beds.  The farm itself appeared deserted, and when we got close we realised that the lone yacht already anchored had long been abandoned.  Her hull was streaked and shabby, her sail covers mouldy and her mizzen mast flogged to and fro, hanging off one shroud and a triatic stay.  It was like the opening shot of a spaghetti western.  We could have sought shelter further up the river, but it was unmarked, and we were aware of the need to depart early the next day.  So we took the easy way out, and motoring hard against the wind, left the river to head straight for Horn Island.
 
This was a tricky decision, because we were in danger of foul tide once we got into the Torres Straight, and the foul tide was predicted to run at 5 knots!  But luck was with us.  We ran North at over seven knots, breasted the overfalls at the mouth of the very narrow Albany Passage in fine style and had two knots of current in flat seas to sweep us through the pass and towards the Cape York, the northern tip of the Australian mainland.  Albany Passage was breathtaking; the current swirled us past beautiful bays (many of which looked like well-sheltered anchorages, though only one and possibly a second, are shown as such), and the scenery was magnificent.  There were two small settlements, one on either side of the passage, but very little signs of life - there was not even the sight of even a small (but presumably man-eating) crocodile to be seen.  Our luck continued, the unpredictable current helped us towards the gap between Horn and Thursday Islands, and by about 5 pm we were anchored safely amongst the early fleet arrivals just below the jetty on Horn Island.  Despite that this was the leeward side of the channel, winds gusted at up to 30 knots all the time we were there, and there was generally a strong current to contend with as well.  Luckily all the neighbouring yachts (Kealoha, Kasuje, Talulah Ruby and Chantelle being our nearest neighbours) swung at about the same rate at the same time, so there were no clashes or anchor-chain tangles to sort out.
 
We were tired, and had an early night.  Next day, the skipper stayed and struggled with a couple of jobs on Cleone (it was one of  those days when what should have been a simple job took all day) whilst Norfy and Nicky set off by ferry from Horn Island to discover why Thursday Island is such a popular place.  In this, they failed completely.  It remains the centre of the Pearl Industry, and there is now a little bit of prawn fishing carried out as well.  There are some holiday resorts and a couple of bars.  But most people seem to have nothing to do, and whilst they were glad to visit for a day, neither of the Ns felt it was at all the sort of place they'd want to spend a holiday.  We all attended the Skippers' Briefing, then after a few beers and a very good meal in what we all felt was a typical Aussie Bar, it was another early night; there was lots to do if Nicky was to catch her plane and Cleone was to make the start on time.
 
In the end, all was well.  Whilst the To Do list remained (and still is) pretty full, Chris went early to the surprisingly well-stocked supermarket and returned with all we needed (hopefull) for the week's trip to Darwin, the dinghy got packed, the sail covers removed, the engine checked, and we reported on time with 8 other yachts to set off westwards down the sound towards Darwin.  Meanwhile, Nicky had been collected by World Cruising's Clare Pengelly in the Committee Boat, and she had the honour of working the starting flags to see us all off!  So the last we saw of Nicky was as she was waving and photographing us as, powered by its large outbord, the committee boat pursued the fleet down the Sound for a few photo calls.  We will miss her - she's been a wonderful crew member and guest.  And we hope the rest of the depleted fleet will join us, either en-route or in time for the start of the leg from Darwin to Bali.
 
All well with us, and best wishes to everyone. 
 
James, Chris and (just) Nicky
Yacht Cleone
10o43'S 139o34'E



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