Hi, we have actually left for the next island, but I'm writing installment 2 of our visit to Port Resolution. After the ceremonial welcome and exchange of gifts were completed we were off on our trip. 10 of us in the back of an open 4 x 4 pickup truck set off along the track to first visit a Kastom village. This is a village that has decided to maintain all its traditional ways and live simply, getting some income from visiting tourists. The track to the village was very steep in places and we all had to hang on tight. The vegetation was amazingly lush with lots of giant tree ferns as well as palms and creepers. However, the stars of the vegetation were the massive ancient trees, some of which had huts built up in the branches. When we arrived at the village we were led to a ceremonial area, dominated by a really massive tree with an entrance through it. The all male dancers emerged through this entrance wearing penis sheaths and leaves on their heads. Picture of this tomorrow. The dances were incredibly energetic and involved lots of stamping and singing. They then showed us how to light a fire using sticks. We then had some music played on pan pipes while we looked at their wood carvings for sale, by this time the light was going and it wasn't easy to get 'photos. Back into the pick-up truck for an even steeper journey up to the volcano. There was one point where we got stuck an though we would have to get out and push, but we managed it. It was quite disconcerting to see the last part of the track smoking along the edges.
We emerged at the base of the cone - no vegetation just larva lumps, and walked passed a warning sign up a steep path to the rim. The sight from the rim was awesome with smoke and lumps of red-hot rock emerging from two vents going way above our heads. Luckily the wind was strong and blowing in the opposite direction. Even more scary in some ways was the noise. Every few minutes there was a rumble, like a tube train, followed by a loud explosive noise as a large pulse of smoke and larva was emitted. Our picture give a little feel of what it was like, but unfortunately without the accompanying noise. We all stayed spellbound for at least an hour watching the spectacle. It was a little off-putting when another group came up all wearing hard hats and safety goggles. However, we made it safely back to our truck, and in the darkness we could now see red-hot lumps of rock rolling over the ground just to the side of us. (We were warned that we were going at our own risk!) It was an amazing experience and I wouldn't have missed it for anything.
When we arrived back at the village, the villagers had prepared a feast for us and the rest of the ARC participants. It was beautifully laid out but it was difficult to see what anything was - there is one electric light in the area of the yacht club, the rest were oil or gas lamps. The plates were made of palm leaves lined with banana leaves, and while there were a few forks, most people ate with their hands. While I will eat just about anything, there was not much that I could get down. Lots of unidentifiable roots with consistency like thick glue or rubber and some parcels of what I thought looked to be ravioli, but were like rancid suet filled with some dark chewy 'meat'. Cold spaghetti and rice went down well, as did some curried fish. It was a great occasion, but unfortunately Michael and I hadn't the forethought to bring a beer or bottle of wine to drink.
After a long day following a tiring sail we were glad to get back to our bunks, with lots of great memories.
Cheers for now
Jacki & Michael
volcano