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American Spirit II - Day 49; Swimming with Sea Lions & 5 Day M/V Fragata Cruise; Friday, February 21, 2014



I apologize for not getting this log and the 4 following it to you sooner. The reason for the delay is that for 5 days were have been nowhere near Wifi or the internet to send these logs.

The day started early. Janet and I were starting a 5 day cruise aboard the M/V Fragata. More on that later.

We got up at 6:30 AM because we had to meet at the public dock at 7:30 AM for the start of our process of getting to our cruise vessel located at Baltra Island. After boarding a bus, along with crew from Nexus, Hebe and Polaris (other boats in our Rally); we departed for the northern part of Santa Cruz Island. We arrived at a ferry crossing 45 minutes later, whereupon our luggage was transferred to the ferry. After boarding the ferry, we waited for it to 'fill up.' The stated passenger limit of this ferry, which was quite small and was propelled by a 75 horsepower outboard motor, was 40. However, it appeared that we had at least 60 passengers on board. Were this a ferry in the USA, this would never be allowed to happen. The US Coast Guard would not allow it. This 5 minute ferry ride cost $.80; and took longer than the regular 5 minutes because there appeared to be some sort of fuel line problem, which resulted in us drifting across the channel on a couple of occasions. However, we made it to the other side. Once there, we gathered up our luggage again, and boarded a bus to the Baltra Airport. Once at the airport, we waited from 9:00 AM to 11:30 AM for 4 more passengers who were joining our cruise. Discussion amongst the Rally people centered on why did we take a bus at 7:30 AM only to get to the airport and then have to wait 2 1/2 hours for others to join our passenger vessel. We met our guide, a young Ecuadorian named Alberto, who explained that the 4 passengers we were waiting for were flying in from the mainland. After receiving some suggestions about our proceeding to the M/V Fragata where we could wait for the remaining passengers there, our guide capitulated and we were then bussed to a dock in the proximity of our vessel. As we walked thru a debarkation structure, 3 sea lions were observed sleeping on the benches and floor. It is quite amazing. Because all animals in the Galapagos are protected, they have no fear of humans. Our passenger ship has 2 tenders or dinghies, which we boarded and were transported to the ship. The Spanish word for these dinghies is "panga." Before departing, we all had to put on life jackets. This is a common requirement of all passengers boarding small cruise vessels via dinghies. The ride out to the Fragata took only a few minutes.

Once aboard, we met in a central meeting room in the forward part of the vessel, then received our berthing assignments. Janet and I were put in Cabin #7 on the 3rd deck. The M/V (M/V stands for Motor Vessel) Fragata is a 70 foot cabin cruiser that has 8 cabins for 16 passengers. The vessel has 4 decks. The main deck is entered while boarding the vessel. On this deck is located the central meeting room and bar area in the forward part of the ship; and the restaurant with 4 tables is located in the aft section on this deck. The deck below this one has 4 paying passenger cabins, the engine room and crew quarters. The deck above the main deck, which I call the 3rd level, has 4 paying passenger cabins,the Captain's cabin and the bridge located on it. The top or 4th level of the ship is a sun deck that is half shaded and half exposed to the sun. For a small vessel, the layout was very functional and impressive that so much could be crammed into 70 feet. The vessel is probably 40 years old.

The ship was crewed by 7, including a Captain, First Officer, Engineer, Cook, Bartender, and 2 other mates.

The cabins are composed of 2 twin sized beds, a nightstand separating them, a hanging closet with a safe enclosed, 2 large drawers under each bed for storing your cloths, and a head/shower area. Our cabin also had a 5 foot by 4 foot sliding glass window, which unfortunately did not slide open. Lighting in the cabin was very good, and there were sufficient outlets to charge our technology devices: cameras, phones, computer, IPhad, etc.

After sorting thru our cabins, lunch was called. This was done by a crewman walking around the vessel with a low pitched bell. Lunch consisted of chicken, spaghetti, plantain's, salad, baked tomato and for dessert some cut slices of cantaloupe. The food was laid out in serving trays like in a cafeteria. Unlike a large cruise ship, the portions were quite modest. It will be difficult to gain any weight on the voyage. Coffee and tea were also available.

After lunch our guide called a group meeting, and then the vessel weighed anchor en route to Mosquera Island where we would snorkel. Once anchored, we were delivered to the island via the 2 dinghies. To make our entry onto the beach as easy as possible, before getting off the dinghies, they were rotated 180 degrees and backed in up to the shore, with the engine shafts elevated so they didn't strike the rocks and sand. After sliding off, we snorkeled from 2:00 PM to 4:00 PM. This island had white, Florida like beaches; and as is normal in the Galapagos, plenty of 'roca' (rocks). These are volcanic islands; and like many islands in the Galapagos, they are deserted.

There were 3 main areas of sea lions on the island. Two on the shore where we stepped onto the island, and after walking up the steep beach to the spine of the island, a large group of sea lions were on the other side of the island in a nursery. The island at this location was perhaps 150 yards wide.

We donned our snorkel gear and proceed to snorkel. The objective today was to swim with the sea lions and get video of them with the Hero camera. I was successful I am happy to say. While filming the sea lions, they would swim to within 6 inches of me, trying to figure out what it was as I was holding in my outstretched arm. Perhaps they thought it was food. They were very fast, and besides swimming up right in front of me and then breaking or turning, occasionally one would circle around me. Again, because of their protected status, they have no fear of humans. The sea lions I was swimming with appeared to be primarily juveniles (versus pups and adults); and there were approximately a dozen of them. I then proceeded to another sea lion area where the sea lions were 'younger' and where at least one adult was supervising them. Though I was also successful in swimming with and filming the sea lions here, my visit was short lived as a large adult stalked and then charged me. In doing so she approached me with her upper torso out of the water, belching loud sounds at me. Since sea lions have 4 large canine teeth, I found it necessary and prudent to back up. It was hard to back up quick enough.

On the other side of the island was a 'nursery' consisting of a dozen or so pups who were supervised by one adult female. They frolicked in and on the rocky sea shore, playing and rolling around with each other. While standing on the beach, one would exit the water and inquisitively approach you to see or smell you better. They were as small as 2 feet in length.

A walk to another area nearby produced the remains of a Baleen Whale skeleton that had washed up on shore. This whale was about 10 to 15 feet long.

One of the things that one encounters in 'visiting' sea lions is a constant presence of flies. Flies love sea lions just like they like cows. So you are constantly swatting them away. Occasionally a trip to the water was warranted to escape the fly assault. It wasn't greatly annoying, just annoying.

Once back on the Fragata, we were greeted with a tray of chicken wings. Following fresh water showers, we met at 6:30 PM in the forward meeting area, where our guide Alberto explained what we would be doing for the next 24 hours. Namely, the vessel would motor all night to the northwest coast of Isabella Island. Once there we would take a dingy ride to look at the sea, land and air creatures; then go snorkeling. If we're fortunate, we will be snorkeling with penguins! During the night we will cross the equator twice, once before reaching the northern tip of Isabella Island, and once again when we head south again. We will do this again before our cruise is over. How cool is that. Crossing the equator 4 times in one 2 day period. Break out the rum! Isabella Island is the largest island in the Galapagos, having 50% of the land mass. It is also the 'newest' island, being only one million years old. Six large volcanic craters are spread throughout the island. None are active now.

Dinner followed our group meeting and consisted of meat, rice, potato and flan for dessert. After dinner we headed up to the sun deck. Being so far from a city, the view and number of stars visible was overwhelming. We were motoring along at 9.2 knots; about 11 miles per hour. Once in bed, the motion of the vessel was not extreme. There was a gentle rolling from side to side. Very minor. Not bad.

Brian Fox




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