Daily Logs

Sweet Dream - Day 81 April 4, 2019

We took a lovely tour by truck with Richard Dean as our tour guide. He took us all over the island, to many ancient sites, showed us the museum, took us to lunch in Ahahoo bay, stopped at the stores and were back by late afternoon.Nuka Hiva us such a beautiful island!image1.. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 80 April 3, 2019

After a lovely night at the Pearl lodge catching up on WiFi tasks, laundry and sleep, we stopped at our boat for a minute, changed clothes, grabbed the Lucky jacket and took off to town for several hours of fun, fellowship, and food. The local school dance troupe entertained us, we had a skipper’s meeting, discussed the Tahiti Pearl regatta, ate fresh food, drank coconut water, enjoyed more dancing, prize giving and finally a dinner. We went home tired and happy, having passed on the blue jacket to Heike of Endo 2.image1.. read more...

Misto - March 28-April 4 2019: Good to be back in the Caribbean

From Port Louis marina we went around the south of Grenada to Grenada Marine services to get some work done on the engines, fuel and generator.We spent three nights there and got most of the hoped for work completed. We decided to give the anchorages on the south of Grenada a miss as they seemed too full of boats and made our way to Sandy Island.This spit of sand and palm trees is just off Hillsborough the main town on Carriocou.It was a windy sail from Grenada to the island of Carriocou with wind “bullets” coming down off the land and gusting up to 26 knots. The wind was kicking up a bit of a fetch but we stayed two nights on a mooring here at Sandy Island before going around the Tyrell Bay.Here we enjoyed a great meal at Lambi Queen, took a taxi tour around the island and tried to. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 79 April 2, 2019

Ah, Nuka Hiva! So many good memories here from the first time we arrived four years ago. We snagged a great spot in the northwest corner of the bay, had lunch, and Glen and Lars went ashore to sort out hotel rooms, supper, laundry, and WiFi. In the afternoon we took the dinghies ashore to the beach below the hotel, checked into our bungalows and made use of the infinity pool overlooking the bay, and the WiFi to get caught up on posts. We had a sumptuous supper on the patio of the hotel and enjoyed catching up with fellow cruisers.image1.. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 78 April 1, 2019

We came into Comptroller bay in the morning. Danica had arrived ahead of us after our overnight sail from Tahuata. We spent the day in the lee of green cliffs covered with gamboling goats. Frigate birds swooped and fished between the boats, turtles popped their heads up as they swam past, and rays swam upside down in a feeding frenzy. In the afternoon we kayaked ashore, but there was nothing to be seen except pigs and coconut husks, so we went back to the big boat and had Glen and Mary over for supper and card games. After a rollicking night side-wise to the swell we took off for Taiohae bay, arrived in the morning and dropped the hooks.image1.. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 77 March 31, 2019

After a peaceful night’s sleep, we had a very productive project day on the boat inthe pretty anchorage of Hanatefau. Captain worked on the water maker, dried out the code zero sail, scrubbed the waterline of the boat, and fitted the new plexiglass in the moon roof. I spent eight hours doing the embroidery for the good luck jacket. It was a perfect day to get this creative project done, as the anchorage, and the cockpit of the boat were swarming with wasps and no nos.I just sat inside the salon with the screens on, the music playing, and a big glass of water to drink in front of a little fan.In the afternoon Lars, Glen, and Mary went into the village, had a nice walkabout, and came back laden with fruits and crafts. I ploughed on through with my own craft, and by 17:00 had all the. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 77 March 31, 2019

Morning brought a nice smooth anchorage to get chores done in. Captain hung the code zero sail up to dry, fitted a new plexiglass window in the Bimini, changed the water maker filters and just did routine maintenance on the water maker. In the afternoon he and Danica’s crew went to town and cameback laden with fresh fruits and handicrafts. I stayed behind, on our boat, embroidering the label for the Good Luck jacket so it will be ready to pass on at the prize party in Nuka Hiva. At 1800 we upped our anchors and took off sailing into a magical sunset towards Nuka Hiva.image2.. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 76 March 30, 2019

It poured down rain in the night, and we awoke to thick grey clouds and dripping humidity. Fascinating that just yesterday we’d been told we were in the “dry” season! Ha! Not sure I’d want to be here in the wet, if this was dry. We caught a little bright weather window and went ashore with Helke and Glen. Sorting out the taxi was interesting, but in the end, it all worked out. We visited the bank and two grocery markets, picked up our laundry and dinghied back to the big boat. Stuff put away, lunch eaten, and up came the anchors. We motored, making water, in the pouring rain to Tahuata. We passed a lot of bays, and finally ended up in Hanatefau. There were five boats already there, but plenty of room for Danica and us. After dropping the hooks, the guys snorkelled, I kayaked, enjoying. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 75 March 29, 2019

Atouna has been a great place to make landfall! Yes, we DID deploy a stern anchor(and had offers of help from three different boats to do so), but the motion is not too much (after three weeks banging around at sea, this is heavenly!) Today we spent the morning doing that wonderful activity called “cruising” ...ie...working on your boat in exotic places. What a gorgeous spot to be in. A few projects under our belt,and noon found us on our way to the Pearl Lodge for a delightful afternoon. We swam in the infinity pool, lounged on the deck, fellow shipped with dear friends, ate delicious food, downed refreshing gin tonics, and the highlight of the day, had our agent, Mousier Leron, bring our duty free fuel certificate to us special delivery! This amazing gentleman sat and chatted with us. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 74 March 28, 2019

We took a wonderful tour of Hiva Oa with Glen and Mary andPifa as our guide and teacher for the day. Cruising the half finished roads in his excellent Toyota 4x4, as Pifa spun yarns that we could hardly believe, yet loved for the story value. We passed the point where beautiful virgins were sacrificed for the annual rains, missionaries were eaten to absolve drought, the gorgeous bay where Pifa’s grandad still lives, visited his uncle’s farm, left there laden with a bushel of pomplemouse, a bottle of honey and bunches of sweet bananas. His grand dad immigrated from Ireland, hence his name, Pifa O’Conner! What fun...every vehicle we passed on the road contained a cousin, an auntie or an uncle! We ate lunch at Auntie’s place....local goat, pork, yellow fin tuna, rice, fried breadfruit (my. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 73 March 27, 2019

Land Ho! We raised a Hiva Oa at sunrise, accompanied by a welcome committee of dolphins. Came into the bay at Atouna, had Glen and Paul help us set our stern anchor and settled in. We took care of the customary officialdom palaver, had a wonderful lunch with Glen and Mary aboard Danica then we explored the village and visited the Paul Gauguin museum, soaking our souls in the delicious colors. In the evening, we had a wonderful BBQ dinner of goat, fish, French cheesy potatoes , coconut rice, and salad. We were entertained by a fun local band, which as the evening progressed, found us dancing to. What a fun first day in paradise!image1.. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 72 March 26, 2019

Our last day of the long Pacific passage. We had calculated our angles and speed vs the time we would like to make landfall at Hiva Oa,(after daylight) and crazy enough, after three weeks of chasing the wind, today, when we need to only average five knots of speed per hour, the wind is from the exact perfect direction at 16-17 knots! We sailed all day with a reef tucked in, but that still wasn’t slow enough, so at 18:00 we rolled the Genoa all the way in, tacked up to 50 degrees, pulled the main in to the midline , sheeted fairly tight, put the wheel over about ten degrees to leeward, locked it down, and hove-to. This is an old school sailing skill that we don’t practice enough, but when we do achieve stopping the boat’s forward motion and that fabulous “slick” of pudding water starts. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 71 March 25, 2019

After an atrocious Lemony Snicket series of unfortunate events start to our day, we managed to carry on. We spent most of the day cleaning up the mess from the morning fiasco. It was not a happy day. Morning coffee had been interrupted, lunch was two hours late, naps were non existent. After dinner, Captain did the radio net, and two fish came on our rigs at the same time! It was a great boost to the crew’s morale to be able to get both fish onboard by myself. Captain finished the radio net in time to snap a photo of me with my prizes. We put the pretty little dorado back to grow some more, and kept the big tuna. Lars graciously cleaned and filleted the tuna. We iced it down for supper the next two nights, and a little joy began to return to our Sweet Dream.image1.. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 70 March 24, 2019

The sky is dressed tonight in inky black velvet. Wearing diamond studs, a spangled, shooting star necklace, and a carelessly thrown Milky Way shawl draped across her shoulders, she trips softly over the surface of the water in sequinned slippers, waiting for her lover, the Moon to appear and light her up. She leaves little sparkles on the sea where she treads. This is the most beautiful I have seen her lately, and the most benevolent and gracious as well. I’m reminded of the poem, He who walks with beauty...so in my head I change it to He who sails in beauty.. and am thankful for the time to appreciate the splendour that surrounds me in this Sweet Dream.image2. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 69 March 23, 2019 High Seas Haiku

This IHeelBig reacherLike to sail Way overCode zero sail is Upright on smooth seas When squall hits reacherToo much for With clear skies Chinese gibeMe Glide NOMoonWind JoyIs my friendDeep in theHappinessAlways lights the way Trade route gone againElves of the sea bringMakes me feel DifficultFrolickingGoodTime FreeSqualls Whale TimeToo much windDives under Goes so slowEase sheets, grip the wheel The boat and pops out Watching code zeroRide it out The otherIn the squalls BreatheSideSwirlimage1.. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 68 March 22, 2019

In the dark of the night before there was a moon, a pilot whale came calling. It was almost time to change shifts. I was reading, stopping every few pages to cast a look around. Phosphorescence gleamed now and then from something in the water, from the ship’s movement, and from the little breaking wavelets. A few stars twinkled amongst dark clouds above. Intent on my book, the first realisation that a whale had arrived was the smell that assaulted my nostrils. It came from upwind, and the garbage truck rank odor announced its presence before I even heard it blowing. Standing up and looking over the side brought a vision of a large black shape rising from the water beside the boat, the blowing sound and fragrance, then it slid beneath the waves again. Lars got up and I motioned him to. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 67 March 21, 2019

In the early morning watch I finished reading Darwin’s Voyage of the Beagle. It was interesting if only for the fact that they sailed round the world 180 years ago, following almost the exact path we are taking from Galapagos onward. We thought it would be a good read because of going to Galapagos, but both Captain and I found it to be very boring and dry. After I came very happily to the end of that book, still having two hours left on my watch, I opened Paul Gauguin’s Noa Noa, about his sojourn in Tahiti. How refreshing! It has been said that Darwin possessed keen powers of observation. Well, be that as it may, Darwin’s observations come off every bit as interesting as the dry dust left in the chalkboard tray at the end of the day. Gauguin’s observations, on the other hand, are vibrant. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 66 March 20, 2019

Happy Spring! After a very pretty blue sky, blue water day the dolphins came at 17:00 to give us a beautiful dinner show. How we love these”elves of the sea”! We never tire of seeing their happy antics. This was a big pod, with several mothers and their almost white babies. They came byin a long string. Several of them detoured and took a turn running the bow wake. We laughed and laughed, enjoying their company. What perfect timing! We had just begun eating our dinner, so it was an excellent opportunity to relax and enjoy the show on the Sweet Dream!image1.. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 65 March 19, 2019

Crystal blue sky, cerulean blue sea, the air is clear and the wind just a tease. We aren’t moving very fast. The supposed tradewinds have evidently gone on holiday. The only good part about the winds being light is that the seas have lain way down and we aren’t rocking so much, now the motion is more like a shuffle. The weather is stunning, small flocks of pretty pelagic birds dip and soar, schools of flying fish unzip the surface of the water and take flight. We read and nap and eat tuna, take turns driving the boat, eat more tuna. When I was a kid, the old wive’s tale was that eating tuna fish would make you smart( I’m sure it was just a parental conspiracy to get us to eat a cheap easy meal), but hey, if there is anything to it, we are going to be geniuses after this crossing from all. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 64 March 18, 2019

Today is characterised by the incessant side to side motion of the boat. The wind has backed to due east, and has become very light, putting us on a downward run, but, though we are flying a wing on wing rig, are not “running” anywhere fast! Thankfully neither of us suffers from mal-de-mer, just annoyance at having our brains shook inside our skulls. Captain spent a part of the afternoon with screwdrivers in hand, going around and tightening everything up. I constantly raid our supply of clean sponges to stuff yet another one in between clattering, clanking, or clinking objects. The contents of the boat have turned into a surreal orchestra where each thing has a voice and rhythm of its own, all together sounding like a great band in the cacophony of pre-gig tuning session. This is. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 63 March 17, 2019

Erin go Braugh! Sunny Saint Patrick’s Day! It was perfect weather for drying the laundry. Since we have a center cockpit, the aft deck is a great spot for a clothesline. It is not in the way of the sails, doesn’t get salt spray on it, and most importantly, does not impede fishing activities. This ordinary chore of pegging wet clothes on a line to dry is actually very enjoyable in the fresh breeze and hot sunshine rolling across an endless expanse of blue under a bright, clear sky. When people remark that being on a sailboat in a small space seems so confining, I always wish I could share the feeling of having such a huge space to live in. On the back deck hanging laundry, I’m enjoying the freedom of my enormous back yard that goes on in every direction as far as I can see. Being in this. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 62 March 16, 2019

Itwas an absolutely stellar day! The gorgeous sunrise came at almost eight in the morning. The wind wasn’t excellent, but at least it was there. For a few hours we wentwing on wing, then we moved pole to the starbrd side and sailed with the 110 percent Genoa poled out and the main prevented way out on the same side. This was quite comfy, and we were almost able to lay our line to Hiva Oa. At 10:30 we crossed the half way point! Woohoo! We celebrated by eating the brownies we baked yesterday. No fish today, but at least, no lures lost either. Halfway across the Pacific and we have lost four lures!We hear on the radio net that one boat in the fleet has lost five lures! This is an ocean of hungry fish! In the evening before the official watches started we called each of our children on the. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 61 March 15, 2019

The morning comes late. Each day that we move west, the morning takes longer to catch up with us. We had a nice night of living a Leon Bridge’s song, (Smooth Sailin’), then when the day finally arrived it wore a heavy cloak of grey clouds and brought a sluggish wind. Boat calathswinics...pole up, sails out. Sails down, pole down, sails out, sails in, motor on, sail out, motor off, both sails out.....all in an effort to find the downwind sweet spot. No projects done today. We were lucky to get clean linen on the leeberth bunk, a pan of brownies baked, and some of the dust knocked off the salon surfaces. The highlight of the day was finishing Hemingway’s Farewell to Arms. Ach...so sad yet beautiful. Lars read it last week, I finished it today, we had a snack and sat in the cockpit having a. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 60 March 14, 2019

Today the water is like clean blue hills stretching as far as the eye can see. Across their wide expanse horses with foamy white manes, tails and feathered feet come charging up from the south leaping across the dark ravines. The boat gallops along at cross purposes to these steeds of the deep. Occasionally, a particularly eager jumper makes a leap at the rail, only to be dashed against the hull with a boom, leaving a sparkling swoosh scattered to the wind. The boat shrugs them off witha little shudder and keeps on her course. She weighs thirty tons and is not easily impressed with today’s steeple chasers. These lightweight southern sea horsesare of a novice class, eager and boisterous, but not really threatening, not the heavy, pondering warhorses of the Viking North Sea .The sky above. read more...

Sweet Dream - Day 59 March 13, 2019

After a very frustrating night of light, fluky wind, daylight brought a steadier version of the trades. It wasn’t a lot, but at least it was only varying twenty degrees of direction, instead of of 180.The morning radio net produced an interesting conversation. Seems like a lot of the boats are struggling with light, variable wind and incessant squalls. The general consensus was to make more southerly progress to try and break free of this low pressure along the ITCZ. The only caveat is that if we are too far south, and the wind bends east, we will be flying straight downwind the rest of the way. A fine proposition for boats with true spinnakers or the parachute sails, but nigh impossible for boats like ours without such kites.At noon, with uber light wind again, we raised the code zero.. read more...