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American Spirit II - Day 451; We Leave Bequia Island and Head to Chateaubelair Bay on St. Vincent; & See Green Flash No. 43; Thursday, April 2, 2015



One year ago today:

"Day 89; Rain Squall, Mike's Hotel, Rendezvous Party & Stephen Kirk Joins Crew; Wednesday, April 2, 2014. Awakened at 2:39 AM by first of three rain showers. Mike got up and closed all the boat hatches. Thank you Mike.

Crawled out of bed at 7:30 AM. Overcast. Light rain. Today is Mike's last day on the boat.

At 8:20 AM a Frigate bird swooped down and grabbed a 3 inch fish from the water's surface 100 feet behind our boat. As it flew upwards, 3 other exotic looking birds (who remain unidentified for now) flew after the Frigate bird trying to take the fish out of the bird's beak. What is ironic is that the Frigate bird is noted for doing the same thing to other birds, and that is the reason its also called the Man o' War bird. Because it steals fish from other birds."

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Turned on generator at 6:30 AM.

Up at 7:30 AM. Coffee. Joel up at 7:50 AM. Breakfast at 8:25 AM: 4 eggs; potato; left over sirloin steak; and chilled pear halves.

We put the dingy on deck and deflated it at 9:15 AM; and turned the engine on at 9:23 AM. Departed Bequia at 9:26 AM.

At 9:49 AM the wind is 14 knots and we're motor sailing with one reef in the mainsail at 7.3 knots thru the water and 7.6 knots over the land. The engine is set to 2,000 RPM's.

At 9:55 AM I put one fishing line in the water after sailing into a school of fish where many of the 1-2 foot fish were jumping out of the water because they were being chased by predators. The fish jumping looked like tuna.

At 11:20 AM and then a little later two native boats approach us, asking if we're going to Walliabou Bay. We're not. I guess they wanted to guide us into that bay if that's where we're going. For that they would have requested a fee.

At 11:44 AM we pass by Cumberland Bay to starboard. A motor vessel called the 'Nero' is anchored there. It is listed on the AIS as a 295 foot pleasure vessel. Wow! It looks like a small cruise ship. And its privately owned.

At 11:57 AM we motor thru a small channel between Chateaubelair Island and the island of St. Vincent. We go from a depth of 300 feet to 41 feet in seconds, thru a chute or channel 150 feet wide. Very cool. Then we anchor in 30 feet of water. A young boy named George on a kayak, followed by two men in a small skiff, approach us. George takes our garbage, for which I pay him 5 EC. We give George a can of coke and the other two men a can of beer each. They had asked for the drinks. The beer is from Brazil and the two men are mystified by that. But beer is beer. Bottoms up!

We're going to snorkel at Chateaubelair Island, but the wind changes and we're forced to weigh anchor and move from the center part of the small bay to the north end; too far away to dingy over to the island. Too bad, because my cruising guide said the snorkeling there was quite good, with a sheer wall of rock going down 130 on the inner bay side.

Lunch at 12:40 PM is hamburger patties cooked on the grill.

At 1:33 PM the Cape Arrow, a 60 foot sloop, enters the bay and anchors not far from us.

We anchor on the north end of the bay at 2:25 PM in 40 feet of water. Joel puts out 200 feet of chain. We then read in the cockpit.

I type a log at 4:22 PM.

At 4:55 PM another native named John comes by our boat. He's on a surfboard type boat with one paddle. Its a very small 'boat.'

The Pacific, a 53 foot schooner, enters the bay and anchors near us. Its from the Netherlands.

At 5:05 PM a French boat anchors near us. I don't know its name because it doesn't have AIS.

At 6:10 PM a large Hawksbill turtle sticks its head out of the water for a breath.

At 6:15 PM the sun sets and I see Green Flash No. 43 on our trip. Joel doesn't see it this time; a rarity.

At 6:20 PM we put the dingy on deck, deflate it and then pack it up and put it below in the V-Berth.

We're anchored 100 yards from a cliff wall covered with grass, bushes and palm trees; a very tall and steep cliff-face hundreds of feet high. The bay is near the southern edge of an active volcano called Mt. Soufriere. I think its called 'active' because its not geologically dormant. Its 4,000 feet high. After the sun sets we hear some goats or sheep calling out. Its sounds like 'ma...ma.' Small goats or sheep calling their mother. Its unnerving because it sounds like a small child calling its mother. The voice is human-like. As the sun sets the full moon rises, sitting on top of the cliff-face. It looks like we're back in French Polynesia in the Marquesas Islands. That surprises me.

Dinner at 7:10 PM consists of blackened chicken and steak cooked on the grill by chef Joel; corn-on-the-cob; green peas; and garlic bread.

At 7:40 PM music from a bar on shore, over a half mile away, floats across the bay and reaches us. At least its not loud like the previous night in Admiralty Bay on Bequia Island. Since many of the bars are outside I guess you're going to hear the music no matter where you anchor in the Caribbean. Too bad.

Between 8:08 PM and 8:46 PM I finish a log and proof read it.

A heavy rain shower hits us at 9:40 PM. Its heavy enough that I am forced to leave the cockpit where I have been reading and head to the main cabin. Joel goes to bed at 9:45 PM. I'm in bed by 11:15 PM.

Brian Fox

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