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Ayama - Las Perlas



Once the second flotilla of yachts had transitted the canal and joined us we had a crew supper in a Lebanese restaurant nearby. Andrew, the boss of the Arc, arranged transport and we all rode in style in 2 trailers pulled by a tuk tuk. The meal was interesting and we were entertained by an energetic belly dancer who kept selecting people to dance with her. Some were better than others and could wobble the right bits the rest of us just wobbled everything! We went to the fish market for our last supper in Panama City and indulged in all varieties of ceviche, raw prawns, octopus, lobster and the local fish cooked in lime juice. There was a vibrant atmosphere as it is mainly locals eating there.Ayama was anchored just outside the marina and it was entertaining watching the pelicans fishing on the near the shore. They are not very elegant when they dive – more of a belly-flop – but I suppose their beak catches the fish before their body splashes into the water. We also had a few little rays that swam past occasionally.Stefan took the dinghy round the headland to fill the petrol tank. On his way back he met a loose dinghy; he was just about to go after it when he saw Jens, from Garlix, swimming after it. He caught up with it and clambered in, completely naked, but he did have the key!

Thursday We left about 8 am for the 30 miles to Las Perlas. We put the main out but there was very little wind so we motored until it picked up. As we approached the headland of the first island some dolphins appeared on the starboard side and a fantastic formation of pelicans flew past to port. We were all too slow with the cameras to catch it and the debate is now “what is the collective noun for a flight of pelicans?” We dropped anchor beside the Isla Contadora just near the end of the little runway. We had a swim off the back of Ayama and a lazy evening. Friday Per’s birthday. We motored for half an hour round to the gap between Isla Chapera and Isla Mogo Mogo. There were quite a few power boats anchored here but fortunately they are all day trippers. There was a stingray sleeping in the sand under Ayama when we dropped the anchor. Per and I went snorkelling and saw some colourful fish and another stingray. We swam to the beach and collected a few shells and saw a tiny hummingbird in a magnolia tree. There are always frigate birds, boobies and pelicans flying around.

Saturday A few more World Arc boats arrived and “drinks on the beach at 5 pm” was arranged. We took the dinghy across to Mogo Mogo to explore the beach which was covered with shells.  There is a path through the forest to the beach on the other side which is completely deserted but I did find a flipflop to wear going back as the ground was a bit prickly.  It was very comfy so I’ve decided to keep it and am now on the look- out for a left foot!  About 25 of us met on the beach and had a sociable evening.  Of course it was dark when we all headed back to the yachts and there was some hilarity with everyone trying to get off the beach in their dinghies.  Going ashore is a great leveller as no matter how smart the yacht is everybody still has to get off and into dinghies and after a few drinks it doesn’t get any easier. Also I find it amusing that the morning radio network is usually people needing advice or repairs regarding their fridges, freezers, generators, internet etc not the basic sailing essentials of the old days.

Monday We motored for 3 hours (no wind and we needed to charge the batteries) to Isla Canas on the east coast of Isla del Rey. The sea was so calm we could see all the shoals of little fish bubbling the surface as they were chased by bigger fish. Occasionally a tail-wopping (Stefan’s title) fish would jump out and leap across the surface on its tail or a big fish would break the surface.  We had 3 chirpy swallows flying round the boat and one nearly gave Stefan a heart attack as it flew straight past his head under the biminy.

Stefan had to go through the channel very slowly with Per in the bow as there is a shoal in the middle of the channel. As Ayama came into the anchorage 2 frigate birds were having an aerial fight over a fish. The anchorage is so peaceful it is almost like being on a lake and swimming was very relaxing with no current or waves. Two herons on the beach were doing their mating dance and a large turtle glided past as we settled on the anchor. Stefan and Per had to do some work on the fans for the fridge/freezer compressor and the grey water pump; a hot job.

Hugur invited the crew on Exody and us for a sundowner so we spent a very pleasant evening. Kristofer and Snory had been to the village and were so proud of the huge bunch of bananas they had bought and wanted to share with us. Marian, from Exody, pointed out that they were actually plantains, totally inedible raw, and they actually had enough to feed the whole fleet once they are ripe! As we were about to go to Hugur a cloud of butterflies flew over from Isla del Rey to Isla Canas. There are always butterflies flying over Ayama and we wonder where they are going. (What is the collective noun for a crowd of butterflies?) It was a calm anchorage but unfortunately I was well nibbled by gnats.

Tuesday We dinghied over to the village and had a wander round and a beer in the bar. Back to Ayama and, again no wind, so a 3 hr motor to Isla Casaya.   A pair of rays drifted past Ayama on the way.We had to negotiate a few rocky outcrops but it is a peaceful anchorage (well it was until tonight and now we seem to be rocking and rolling a bit). Per had the binoculars out and spotted hundreds of birds on the rocks and beach as the tide came in. He steered the dinghy whilst Stefan and I took photos of hoards of cormorants, pelicans , egrets and other seabirds took off as we approached.They took off in clouds and none of us had seen anything like it. In the evening the Hugur crew joined us for a drink and have kindly given us a fist of plantains. It has been such a busy and exciting week I have trouble catching up with the blog!



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