Firefly - Approaching Cape Reinga, North Island, New Zealand

Its 0300 on Monday 10th November and its extremely chilly. We were told it could be cold during the evenings when we got closer to New Zealand but were not prepared for an Antarctic like chill - perhaps we have gone soft after a year in the tropics. We have been enjoying lighter winds and the change to starboard tack which finally occurred at midday on Sunday. 5 days close hauled and heeled over on port in 15 to 25 knots of wind and rough seas has been enough and with the wind now at about 10 to 12 knots, the sea slight to moderate we are heading almost due east for Cape Reinga some 170 miles away. The wind angle is a little tight for our required course and we are having to motor sail to make good progress.

At the Cape we will turn south east and reach the Bay of Islands sometime later on Tuesday. There is a depression forecast to arrive over New Zealand on Tuesday but it won't affect us too much due to our expected position by then, if anything it will be beneficial as it should mean the winds veer to the north west and then we should be able to finish the passage sailing downwind which would be great for Gareth as he was expecting some tropical trade wind sailing - not a 'Fastnet type experience'.

Gareth is in fact notorious for attracting inclement weather when he goes sailing and it is therefore not surprising that the conditions have been less than ideal. We have even noticed a pattern whereby the wind and waves increase during his 3 hour watches! Its actually been an enjoyable passage and Gareth has fitted in very well and its been great to have both his company and the extra pair of experienced hands - watches shared between 3 as opposed to 2 make a very big difference in terms of the amount of sleep.

In the last posting we mentioned the visit by an Albatross. Clearly we are currently in an area where they are abundant as we have now seen them on 30 or more occasions. Varying in size, with wing spans ranging from 2 to 3 metres they all seem to follow a similar pattern during each of the sightings. Gliding downwind just above the water surface they make perfect turns, wing tips practically touching the water in order to fly through the troughs of the waves to gain lift. We most often spot them several hundred metres behind us when they are clearly coming to investigate Firefly. Making their way back upwind with the odd wing beat fitted in during their precision flying display. They are so low that often they dip below the wave level and temporarily disappear from view. Then as they get near they make a few passes around the boat and then drift away downwind - a spectacular sight!

Paul, Susie and Gareth