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08/04/2015

Luna Quest - Tuesday, 7th April, 2015

Noon Position: 16.04S 148.10WDaily run: 104 milesA lack of wind accompanied by a worked-up, irregular sea is probably one of the most frustrating aspects of cruising in a small boat. A larger boat does not have to take on every wave individually and can ride over them faster as it has a longer waterline and more sail. So we have to content ourselves with less progress and more bouncing around, but it has not stopped Julia fromproducing one wonder after another from the galley or making necklaces with tiny beads and pearls. Papeete (capital of Tahiti) is 120 miles away, which we could reach tomorrow during the day if our speed averaged 5 knots. Tahiti is surrounded by outlying reefs with navigational channels through them. The biggest is open to the port of Papeete and well buoyed, but we. read more...


07/04/2015

American Spirit II - Day 454; Darlene Arrives & Dinner with Nexus and Celebrate; Sunday, April 5, 2015

One year ago today:"Day 92; Nuku Hiva Mistake , Sleeping Clothes, Fans, Low Side Pole (Again), and On the Way to Ahe; Saturday, April 5, 2014. Upon leaving Nuku Hiva I realized that due to the snack bar with free and good Wifi, we were distracted and missed an opportunity to explore Nuku Hiva. We spent too much time at the snack bar. Specifically, Daniel's Bay, which is 2 to 3 miles to the west of our anchorage, has a waterfall that you can get to by hiking thru the mountains. We could have gone there for a day in our boat, and then motored back to the anchorage we were in. Live and learn. No way will any of us ever be here to explore that waterfall and mountain hike again."**************************Joel up at 8:00 AM. I got up at 8:40 AM. Before breakfast a couple, Wayne and Ali,. read more...


07/04/2015

American Spirit II - Day 453; We Get Acclimated in St. Lucia & Go To a Great Indian Restaurant; Saturday, April 4, 2015

One year ago today:"Day 91; Mike's B-Day; Leaving Nuku Hiva, One More Shark, Mainsail and Racing to Ahe; Friday, April 4, 2014. Mike Mogavero, who flew home on Thursday, had a B-Day today. If we'd have known that Wednesday night, we would have announced his birthday during the native dance like other Rally crews did."******************Up at 5:30 AM. Coffee. It had rained during the night and the dodger center window was not zippered down. Oops. Our blue recliners are wet. I read in the cockpit.Joel gets up at 8:20 AM. No breakfast today as we ate too much for dinner last night. At 9:00 AM the car rental guy, Shawn, shows up at the boat. After filling out the paperwork we follow him to the parking lot to get the car. After that Joel 'dresses the boat.' Meaning, he put up a lot of flags. read more...


07/04/2015

American Spirit II - Day 452; We Leave St. Vincent and Make It To St. Lucia; Friday, April 3, 2015

One Year Ago Today:"Day 90; Mike Flies Home After 5 1/2 Weeks, and Cats and Chickens Chow Down Together; Thursday, April 3, 2014. Rain squall 2:25 AM. Closed hatches. Up at 6:45 AM. At 7:23 AM Joel and I left to have breakfast with Mike at his hotel. We told the waitress, who spoke no English, that we wanted to order breakfast. Breakfast came, and it consisted of grapefruit slices, French bread with butter and jelly, and coffee. A European breakfast, says Mike. Mike departed in a taxi with another person at 9:40 AM."********************Up at 2:59 AM; stuck my head up in the cockpit and looked around. A little rock and roll in the anchorage. I then went back to bed.At 6:00 AM my alarm went off. Time to get up; it's moving day (to St. Lucia). I feel like I didn't get much sleep. A light. read more...


06/04/2015

Luna Quest - Monday, 6th April, 2015

Noon Position: 14.46S 146.55WDaily run: 116 milesWe are passing through the Tuomoto Archipelago today skirting the Rangiroa atoll. With sunrise there were a number of squalls sitting on the horizon with one moving towards us. We had one reef in the mainsail and several rolls in the genoa when the squall struck with 28 knots of wind sending Luna Quest at 7.5 knots towards the Tuomotos. As our little ship tends to luff in a puff, I need to help the Hydrovane by hand steering. I did not have much on when the rain came down and as I had not had a body wash for several days, I thought a good rinse would do the trick, but Julia took the opportunity to chuck me up a soapy face cloth and with that I managed to lather myself never ceasing to steer the boat with my left foot on the helm. Then the. read more...


06/04/2015

GarliX - Ostern hier auf Faku Hiva

Tour: Tahuata - Faku Hiva/ 50sm5.4.2015. Kann das sein…wir hier im Irgendwo…bemalen lustig Ostereier, beschenken andere Menschen, gehen in den Gottesdienst und empfangen sehr viel Lächeln und Blumenkränze für’s Haar. So haben wir Ostern lange nicht erlebt. Mit großer Freude und Ausdauer haben Hanna und ich unsere letzten Eier gefärbt. Haben uns dabei - in Ermangelung an Ostereierfarbe aus dem Laden - sogar an das alte Oma- und Mutterrezept mit Zwiebelschalen und Essig erinnert. Es klappt tatsächlich. Haben mit Wassermalfarbe SY Makena (Kat) und SY Aplus2 auf die Eier gemalt und sind morgens mit dem Dingi rum und haben kleine Nester verschenkt. Unsere letzten Eier haben wir mitgenommen zum Gottesdienst. Die Einheimischen haben uns eingeladen zu ihrer Messe. Das sind immer wieder Momente -. read more...


05/04/2015

Luna Quest - Sunday 5th April, 2015

Noon Position: 13.04S 145.51WDaily run: 118 milesEvery day is a glorious day and sailing cannot get any better. Julia is making a necklace and I am busying myself around the boat. We have now set a course to take us through the Tuomoto Archipelago towards Tahiti, where we are looking forward to experiencing some French culture and cuisine and a good long shower!Eric. read more...


05/04/2015

Juno - Marquesas, Nuku Hiva

We are on a broad reach, champagne sailing at 8 knots towards the Tuamotus, 500 miles to the southwest. The sun is already high in the eastern sky as the Marquesas fade behind us; the towering cliffs and emerald forests just a faint silhouette in the haze of the rising sun, the lens of proximity no longer in focus.  A pod of twenty dolphins plays in our wake; two pups swim in tight formation with their mother while energetic adolescents playfully leap high out of the water before sprinting ahead to the bow where they weave and jostle for position in the surf.  Curiously, this captivating sight barely raises a glance on board Juno. Caroline looks up briefly from her book, Andrew pokes his head up the companionway but that is all. We have become blasé about the bountiful marine. read more...


Juno - Marquesas, Nuku Hiva
Juno - Marquesas, Nuku Hiva
05/04/2015

Juno - Marquesas, Hiva Oa

On a long ocean passage reality is suspended. As the days roll by, our mental image of land is framed by our previous destination; the endless vista of sea and waves suspends that picture in our minds, making landfall all the more dramatic when it appears. Whether the palm trees and beaches of the Caribbean after an Atlantic crossing or the soaring peaks and lush jungle of the Marquesas, our senses are heightened, the impact greater. We are moored in the bay of Tahauku on the island of Hiva Oa, our port of entry to the Marquesas where generations of sailors have dropped anchor after the long pacific crossing.  It is a spectacular setting in the shadow of the brooding Mount Temetiu, its steep sides swathed in thick jungle, plunging down to the murky green sea below.Four boats of the. read more...


Juno - Marquesas, Hiva Oa
Juno - Marquesas, Hiva Oa
05/04/2015

Free & BrEasy - Deep Turtle

We are gradually working our way up the Winward Islands, collectively called the Grenadines, that form a chain of stepping stones between Grenada and St Lucia. Our last few days in Grenada continued to be happy ones, except for the frustration of not being able to fix either the water maker or the single side band radio, but by now Roger is well acclimatised to the vagaries of the Marine service industry! A huge achievement whilst we were still in Grenada was to finish the beans and rice that we had over prepared for a meal with Adela; what a relief to finally see the bottom of the bean box!We left Grenada with many happy memories of a beautiful island with friendly locals. As one old Yottie, that we met in the Market, commented, with a very wistful look in his eye, "I could die here".. read more...


05/04/2015

Luna Quest - Saturday, 4th April, 2015

Noon Position: 11.54S 144.05WDaily run: 125 milesLast night we witnessed a near full moon eclipse in a cloudless sky and lightening beyond the northern horizon. We stayed out to watch the phenomena and a very Milky Way for some time while Luna Quest was speeding along at 6 knots. Hauling in a light weight sail, I caused a rip in the sail of several yards. It is an old sail and we wonder whether it is reparable or needs replacing. We are looking forward to getting to Tahiti.Eric. read more...


04/04/2015

Juno - Marquesas, guest written by Andrew

It is 0230 in the morning, I am on watch and we are sailing from Tahuata to NukuHiva. We are proceeding at 6 knots and are passing on our port side Ua Pou – what great names! I am sitting in my shorts with no shirt, having hardly worn a shirt or shoes for the last 2.5 months. Our 17 day Pacific crossing ended at Hiva Oa 3 days ago; we are at the Marquesa Islands.  Hiva Oa and Tahuata are stunning and I have high hopes for Nuku Hiva which has one of the world’s highest waterfalls, which we will trek up to. On our Port side about 1 mile away is A Plus 2 and on the starboard side about 2 miles away Makena; both boats on the World Arc.   We left Tahuata at 1800 having had lunch on Makena with fish caught by Steve (a Marquesan with an unspellable and un-pronounceable name).. read more...


Juno - Marquesas, guest written by Andrew
Juno - Marquesas, guest written by Andrew
04/04/2015

Sweet Pearl - Azoren --> Barcelona - 8. Tag - Auf nach Cadiz

Nachdem in der Strasse von Gibraltar ab morgen bis vorraussichtlich Freitag ca. 30kn aus Osten gemeldet sind, haben wir entschieden ein Zwischenstopp in Cadiz einzulegen und abzuwarten. Wie lange wir da sein werden, wissen wir jetzt noch nicht, aber sobald es weiter geht, setzt sich dieser Blog auch fort:). Wir sind guter Dinge und freuen uns ab jetzt näher am Land zu segeln. Bis Barcelona werden wir wohl nie mehr als 50 Seemeilen (also ein halber Tag) von der Küste entfernt sein - sehr ungewöhnlich für uns:). Wir wünschen allen morgen sehr schöne Ostern! Ciao, Tom. read more...


04/04/2015

American Spirit II - Day 451; We Leave Bequia Island and Head to Chateaubelair Bay on St. Vincent; & See Green Flash No. 43; Thursday, April 2, 2015

One year ago today:"Day 89; Rain Squall, Mike's Hotel, Rendezvous Party & Stephen Kirk Joins Crew; Wednesday, April 2, 2014. Awakened at 2:39 AM by first of three rain showers. Mike got up and closed all the boat hatches. Thank you Mike.Crawled out of bed at 7:30 AM. Overcast. Light rain. Today is Mike's last day on the boat. At 8:20 AM a Frigate bird swooped down and grabbed a 3 inch fish from the water's surface 100 feet behind our boat. As it flew upwards, 3 other exotic looking birds (who remain unidentified for now) flew after the Frigate bird trying to take the fish out of the bird's beak. What is ironic is that the Frigate bird is noted for doing the same thing to other birds, and that is the reason its also called the Man o' War bird. Because it steals fish from other. read more...


04/04/2015

Luna Quest - Friday, 3rd April 2015

Noon Position: 11.11S 142.02WDaily run: 100 milesWe had planned to call into one or two of the Tuomoto archipelago atoll islands, but having read about the dangers of coral heads and dangerous passes into the lagoons, which can only be navigated at slack tide, we have decided to bypass them and head straight for Tahiti, another 200 miles further south. The weather today is again too glorious for words with a cloudless sky, gentle winds and a calm regular sea. It is hot, though, 32C in the boat with the fridge working overtime and blowing out more hot air. Julia has been busy making bread and hot cross buns while I have had a day of rest. Since arriving in Hiva OA, I have been on the go non-stop, scrubbing the boat, ferrying diesel and water aboard, being thrown about in the fearsome. read more...


03/04/2015

Celebrate - Fireworks Display!! Sulphur Springs, Diamond Gardens & Fond Doux Estate + more on the St.Lucia Island Tour!

The thrilling fireworks display put on by the Capella Hotel (formerly Discovery) was right over the bow of our boat!Never a dull moment in Marigot Bay!The next day we had a terrific all-day driving tour of St. Lucia arranged by the hotel concierge. Our great driver, Eugene, was just great and knew everybody.We stopped for a "jelly", a drinking coconut, along the way to Soufriere where we toured the magnificent tropical Diamond Botanical Gardens with a wonderful waterfall.Next was the drive-thru volcano mineral baths and sulphur hot springs.Lunch was at the lovely Fond Doux Estate.We finished the tour by driving on to Castries and stopping for "just baked bread" in a huge clay oven while we watched.Castries will be our net shopping excursion on our own.Next:Looking forward to the fleet. read more...


03/04/2015

GarliX - ? zu Ostern mit Mantarochen schnorcheln?

2.4.15 Tahuata. Solche Feiertage haben es in sich… und 12.000sm sind sehr weit… kurz nach Hause „beamen“ und wieder zurück - aber besser wäre, Ihr kommt her. Es ist hier das Paradies und wir sind froh, soviel Zeit hier verbringen zu dürfen. Irgendwann hat uns jemand gesagt, wenn „Ihr rum wollt, verbringt nicht soviel Zeit in der Karibik, bleibt länger in der Südsee“. Es ist auch das Paradies von Thor Heyerdahl, der in seinem „Kon-Tiki“ schrieb…„Schon am Nachmittag blies der Passat mit voller Stärke. Er wühlte das Meer zu brausenden Seen auf, die sich von achtern auf uns stürzten. Erst jetzt wurde uns allen klar, dass uns nun das Meer selbst in Empfang nahm…Wir waren in den Bereich des Passats gekommen, und jeder Tag führte uns weiter und weiter hinaus aufs Meer. Nun galt es nur noch mit. read more...


03/04/2015

American Spirit II - Day 450; We Tour Bequia, Including a Whale Museum; Poisonous Apples; Green Flash # 42; & a Loud Night in the Anchorage; Wednesday, April 1, 2015

One year ago today:"Day 88; Fueling Celebrate, Trillium Dingy Transfer, Snack Shop BBQ and Tsumani Alert; Tuesday, April 1, 2014. Up at 6:00 AM. Throat still sore, nose still running. Started generator at 7:00 AM to recharge batteries. This is something we do usually every morning and every evening for about 2 hours at at time. We only burn about .36 gallons of diesel an hour when we do this, which is not a great amount of fuel. While under sail, we charge our batteries with the hydro generator and wind turbine; and use the generator only if we're going less than 5 knots of boat speed."*****************************Up at 6:00 AM. Started generator. The sun rose over the hills or mountains to the east at 6:44 AM. A nice sight to behold. Breakfast is at 8:15 AM and consists of eggs, sausage. read more...


03/04/2015

Exody - Days 77-82 - Fatu Hiva +Tahuata

Allegro, the last World ARC boat arrived in the delightful (ie first with classic sand, turquoise water,palm trees etc versus black boulders!) Baie Hanamoenoa at the northwest of Tahuata at midnight last night Wednesday 1st April (8 days after ourselves) and all boats here (APlus2, Aretha, ourselves) convened on Makena to give them an early morning welcome before they headed across the channel to Hiva Oa to formally clear in. From the 'viewing platform' of Makena we had a great view of the five local manta rays, a lone turtle and a small school of dolphins. Juno had left early on for the 500 mile crossing to the Tuamotus and we have since been joined here by Ayama and Afar 6.It's been good to reconnect with the front of the fleet and the rear.We plan to leave tonight for an overnight 85. read more...


02/04/2015

Luna Quest - Thursday, 2nd April, 2015

Noon Position: 10.45S 140.21WMeasured run: 88 miles (since departure at 5.30pm on 1.4.15)Despite a dark night and black clouds obliterating any outlines of the island, we arrived in the port of Atuona in Hiva OA at the dead of Sunday night with the help of our chart plotter. We managed to get some 3 hours of sleep into Sunday (29/3/15) to give us just enough energy to re-anchor in daylight as the swell in the port had given us a most uncomfortable rest. We met up with many of the other World ARC participants in the evening for a meal out. On Monday we joined a tour of the island, which took us down many dirt tracks and into tiny settlements, but Hiva OA is probably best remembered for its luscious vegetation and its steep, verdant mountains, where nobody has yet set foot. On Tuesday. read more...


02/04/2015

Sweet Pearl - Azoren --> Barcelona - 6. Tag - Mal schneller, mal langsamer

Mal gehts schneller, mal langsamer. Mal haben wir viel Wind, mal haben wir fast kein Wind. Mal ist es sehr kalt, mal ist es saukalt. Aber mit 4!!! Schichten am Kopf, 6!!! Schichten am Oberkörper, 5!!! Schichten in den Beinen und 4 Schichten an den Füssen trotzen wir der Kälte (Kommentar der Readaktion: keine Übertreibung bei der Schichtenangabe). Jetzt ist es aber Schicht im Schach;-). Liebe Grüsse, Tom. read more...


02/04/2015

White Wave III - Getting ready for the rally

Five Australians + One Canadian + Catalina Morgan 44 = A Recipe for a great crossing!   We’re all getting rather excited about the big sail and the countdown is on. Looking forward to meeting everyone!  See you soon.. read more...


White Wave III - Getting ready for the rally
White Wave III - Getting ready for the rally
01/04/2015

Firefly - Firefly - updated short and long term plans

st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) } Firefly is currently moored at the Bay of Islands Marina in Opua and her crew have flown home for a brief spell in ‘Blighty’. Several jobs including the servicing of the sails, replacing the water maker membranes and testing the alternators are underway in Opua and in the UK Paul and Susie are stocking up with the few things that can’t be bought in NZ and at the same time as catching up with family and friends. The short term plan is that we are leaving New Zealand at the beginning of May and will be bound for Tonga, sailing with the Island Cruising Association on the first 2 legs of their Pacific Circuit Rally. Heading north east it is about 750 miles to Minerva Reef where we will stop, anchor and rest before sailing the remaining 300 miles. read more...


01/04/2015

American Spirit II - Day 449; We Leave Tobago Cays and Sail to Bequia Island; Tuesday, March 31, 2015

One year ago today:"Day 87; Breakfast Ashore, Herman Melville, Main Sheet Traveler Car Here, Fueled Boat, Got Butane and Pizza for Dinner; Monday, March 31, 2014. The reference to Herman Melville in the Subject line is that in 1842 he 'jumped ship' while in Nuku Hiva on a whaling vessel. For those that don't know, Melville wrote the classic Moby Dick. A movie by that name had the Captain played by Gregory Peck."*********************Up at 4:18 AM. I stay up to watch the sunrise, hoping for a green flash. The sun rises at 6:04 AM above the clouds on the horizon; so no green flash. I see people on 3 other boats watching the sun rise, also. At 6:10 AM I go back to bed. Up for good at 7:25 AM. I turn the generator on at 7:27 AM; and at 7:30 AM a turtle sticks its head out of the water for me. read more...


01/04/2015

American Spirit II - Day 448; We Leave Union Island and Go to Tobago Cays & Have a Lobster Dinner on a Beach; Monday, March 30, 2015

One year ago today:"Day 86; Arrived in Nuku Hiva, First Sunrise Green Flash and Wifi Day at the Snack Shop; Sunday, March 30, 2014. Mike woke me at 5:30 AM as we were 10 miles from Nuku Hiva. The sun rose at 5:52 AM and for the first time in my life I saw a Green Flash at sunrise. I wasn't looking for the flash, it just happened. Green Flash number 6 on our trip. With sunset at 5:50 PM the night before and sunrise at 5:52 AM the days and nights are equal in time. That's what being near the equator is like."*************************Up at 4:15 AM; then back to bed; up at 6:15 AM; then back to bed; then up for good at 8:00 AM. Joel and I are both suffering from 'Rum Punch Malaise.' A big rain shower is passing by to starboard. We run the generator from 8:45 AM to 10:50 AM; then turn the. read more...


01/04/2015

GarliX - Nuku Hiva - Herzlich Willkommen - wieder ein schönster Tag

31.3.2015 / Marquesas / Nuku Hiva/ Bay de TaioaEs ist eine Bay die an Norwegen erinnert…gut, nicht die Palmen, aber diese unglaublich hohen Berge. Hier fühlt man sich geschützt. Wir machen wieder einmal eine „schönste Wanderung“; haben ein „schönstes Erlebnis“. Wir sind uns einig… es gibt mehrere „Schönste“…was nicht unbedingt heißt, „schöner“ als das letzte „Schönste“. Ihr wisst schon…Endlich wollen wir zu einem Wasserfall wandern; Jens wartet schon so lange drauf. Wir landen mit dem Dingi im Dorf einer Familie und werden begrüßt mit Geschenken. Dicke fette Früchte aus dem „Garten“. Pampelmusen - groß wie Köpfe. Immer wieder diese Freundlichkeit - es ist eine glaubhafte Freude, uns in ihrem zu Hause zu begrüßen. Diesmal sind wir vorbereitet und bringen Schokolade mit; obwohl ich von der. read more...


31/03/2015

Sweet Pearl - Azoren --> Barcelona - 2. Tag - Auf nach "Europa"

Nach dem unglücklichen Hexenschuss von Fritz, sind Alex und ich gestern zu zweit von Ponta Delgada gestartet mit Zielhafen Bracelona (ca. 1550 Seemeilen) - ein Zwischenstopp ist allerdings nicht ausgeschlossen;-). Fritz ist bereits wieder heil zuhause und lässt sein Rücken auskurieren, dem es schon ein bisschen besser geht. Wir wünschen auf jeden Fall auch auf diesem Weg eine gute und schnelle Genesung. Im Moment kommen wir gut voran, allerdings ohne Wind. Das Segelalltagsleben ist bereits eingetreten und heute gibt es Pizza. Liebe Grüsse nach hause, Tom. read more...


31/03/2015

Sweet Pearl - Azoren --> Barcelona - 4. Tag - Und weiter gehts

Der Wind nimmt jetzt ein bisschen zu, leider aus der falschen Richtung, aber das soll sich in 2 Tagen bereits ändern:). Uns gehts sonst gut und wir haben heute eine Haiflosse gesehen, die uns entgegengeschwommen ist. Auch sonst ist eher viel Verkehr im Vergleich zu den vorigen Legs: wir sehen jeden Tag mindestens ein Schiff das Richtung Azoren fährt oder von den Azoren kommt. Cheers, Tom. read more...


31/03/2015

American Spirit II - Day 447; We Tour Union Island; the Dingy Battery Dies; & We Go to Janti's Happy Island for drinks; Sunday, March 29, 2015

One year ago today:"Day 85; Off to Hiva Oa to Pick Up Alex, 5th Green Flash, Two Fish Got Away and Lightning; Saturday, March 29, 2014. 8:00 AM breakfast, followed by letting the air out of the dingy and stowing it below in the v-berth. To let the air out of the dingy we use the electric air pump and suck air out of the dingy. This process is faster than just opening the valves and we actually get more air out by sucking it out with the pump. We weighed anchor at 8:55 AM and headed back for Hiva Oa to pick up World Cruising Club representative Alex. Normally the WCC rep would fly to the next island, but since all the flights between the islands are booked, Alex needed to hitch a ride to get to Nuku Hiva. And we needed him to get there as he was organizing our rendezvous party April. read more...


31/03/2015

American Spirit II - Day 446; We Arrive in Union Island in St. Vincent & the Grenadines; Saturday, March 28, 2015

One year ago today:"Day 84; Hike to 2,000 Foot Waterfall, Another Green Flash and Dinner at II Audeacious; Friday, March 28. 2014. Up at 6:00 AM. Breakfast at 7:00 AM. In the dingy at 7:50 AM to start our three three hour round trip hike to the 2,000 foot waterfall on Fatu Hiva. The 'landing spot' for our dingy was around a jetty that had a concrete pier and a ramp for motor boats to be put into and pulled out of the water. We elected to pull up to the concrete ramp, then lift our dingy with its motor out of the water and onto dry land, high enough to be in no danger of a rising tide. A few minutes later the crew of Follie a Deux arrived, and after disembarking 3 of the 4, Brian dropped a stern anchor, tied up at the pier and climbed up onto terra firma."************************Up at. read more...


30/03/2015

Free & BrEasy - Goat Racing in Tobago

Tobago is a lovely green hilly island with lots of place names that sound familiar to English ears such as Scarborough, Plymouth and Richmond. The Scots and Welsh also had fun as places were called Speyside, Cambletown, Culloden Bay, Stonehaven Bay, Glamorgan and Pembroke. Even the Irish got in with Hillsborough Bay. No wonder we felt at ease in the tropical heat!Arriving in Scarborough, the main port, we were advised by the port authority to anchor close in shore rather nearer to some fishing boats than we liked. After exchanging gesticulations and eventually a radio conversation with a neighbouring boat from Belgium, we realised that they meant, really close in shore. Ten minutes later we learnt why when an enormous ferry smartly executed a handbrake turn just where we were going to. read more...


29/03/2015

Aretha - Fatu Hiva, Marquesa Islands

It’s been 5 days now since we arrived in the Marquesa Islands.I have to say I think we are deeply touched by the warmth of the people here in the Marquesa’s. It’s like nothing we’ve experienced before and it is truly calm and peaceful here. I’ll elaborate more as I write.We arrived and made landfall at 530 am on the 24th March. It’s always stunning to see the mountains rising out of the sea and to smell land again after some 3,000 miles and 20 days at sea. In fact the first thing we noticed was the rich smell of the land as we approached - the smell of vegetation and moisture in the air - so distinctive and evident even before we sighted land.We were welcomed by Makena who helped up lay a stern anchor - in the anchorage, Traitors Bay in Hiva Oa, you need to anchor the bows and stern as. read more...


29/03/2015

Free & BrEasy - Bats and Black Sand

A week on and we are still in Grenada. We have been here so long that we are considering applying for Grenadian Nationality! We now happily catch the minibuses all over the island without a thought for the cramped conditions or our safety due to the manic driving. The small minibuses are, incredibly, designed to hold maximum of 18 passengers, a driver and a shoe-horner. The shoe-horner takes the money, signals to the driver to stop when new victims appear on the roadside and shoehorns them into the seats, trying to exceed the maximum number of passengers! It is a very fast, cheap and environmentally friendly form of mass transport and you never wait more than a few minutes for the next minibus!The new standing rigging now stands proud in its shiny stainless steeliness but alas, the water. read more...


28/03/2015

Luna Quest - Saturday, 28th March 2015

Noon Position: 9.36S 137.51WLogged run: 83 milesMeasured run: 107 milesWe have run under the parasailor now since last Sunday in gentle and moderate breezes. There are only 75 miles to go and at the current speed of 4 knots we expect to arrive in the early hours of Sunday. Today is another glorious day with bright sunshine and scattered cumulus clouds and the occasional squall, which are not dangerous and mostly dry unlike the squalls in the Atlantic. On April 1st there are some local activities laid on in the neighbouring island, which is only an hour’s sail away. Because of the thick growth of seaweed and crustaceans underneath the boat, we may have to go to Nuku Hiva for a scrape, as there do not appear to be any divers available in Hiva OA. There will not be a blog (probably for. read more...


29/03/2015

Exody - Day 76 - Pifa O'Connor

......is descended from Irish famine migrants - his great grandfather having married, as he put it in his own words, a 'savage' - we think he meant 'native'!Pifa and his siblings have the large framed build of the Polynesians but the surname was a giveaway as to the heritage.The O'Connor clan seem to own a fair amount of the north east part of Hiva Oa with ranch lands and other property away from the main township of Atuona.Pifa was our English-speaking guide (studied in Utah, Mormon religion) for a guided full day tour of Hiva Oa, his sister driving the second vehicle and his brother leading a separate French- speaking group that we coincided with.We were joined by the crews of Hugur and Ayama.The day was focused around several archaelogical sites, tikis- stone carving representations. read more...


28/03/2015

Exody - Days 73-75 - Hello Hiva Oa

Late afternoon 24th, our 20th day at sea we crossed the finish line with our waterproofs on under the clouds over the towering green caldera-type shape that forms the backdrop to the bay at Atuona on Hiva Oa - a place strongly associated with painter Gauguin who spent his last few years here before his death in 1903.Tucked in behind the breakwater of the busy anchorage which we are thankfully allowed to use the whole of because the next supply ship does not come until 5th April - by when we'll have moved on.The swell is substantial - all boats are moored fore and aft to keep bow or stern into the swell and to optimise space within the anchorage.At one side of the bay there are regularly 30m high spumes and spray as the swell hits the rocks and on this 'sheltered' side the two dinghy. read more...


28/03/2015

American Spirit II - Day 445; We Tour Carriacou Island & Get Cleared Out for Saturday; Friday, March 27, 2015

One year ago today:"Day 83; On to Fatu Hiva, and Another Green Flash Sunset; Thursday, March 27, 2014. Up at 5:30 AM; breakfast at 7:15 AM. We checked our email after breakfast hand I had a response from Martin from the boat Caduceus of Burnham. I had emailed him last night and asked him about the anchorage at Fatu Hiva and if he had any directions to the waterfall there. He gave me excellent information on both accounts, and indicated that the villagers had even hosted a large dinner for them."****************************Up at 6:15 AM. A sunny day. I watched the sun rise above the high hills to the east.At 6:45 AM Polaris weighed anchor and sailed south towards Grenada to pick up family. At 7:30 AM the Carriacou Net, run by a business on Carriacou, went on the air. The first information. read more...


28/03/2015

Allegro - SEXTA-FEIRA 27 DE MARÇO DE 2015

Quase mais uma semana se passou e o vento, apesar de melhor, continua a dar provas de pouco interesse por nós.Aqui no Pacífico, pelo menos na zona onde nos encontramos, o vento que vai soprar durante o dia, aparece cedo pela manhã, normalmente com o nascer do sol.Depois de se instalar de uma forma progressiva mas despachada, sopra com mais força até depois da hora do almoço, abrandando a seguir um pouco até que para o final da tarde começa a cair para a força que vai ter durante a noite. Assim é, digamos, bastante previsível o que se vai passar nas 6-8 horas seguintes.Até agora não temos tido mais de 12-16 nós durante o período em que sopra com mais força e 8-11 no resto do dia e noite. O que já é bem bom. À noite cai, ás vezes, para 7 e 6 nós. Agora, 23 horas locais, 1330 horas em. read more...


27/03/2015

Karma Wins - Blog 7 Looking for land

Another calm, apart from a big but gentle southerly swell, starlit night and 7 knot winds so we motored until 7 am.Karma Wins is now sailing on course for Hiva Oa, doing 5-6 knots with the gennaker and full main.The dawn was really colourful but the problem with sailing west is that the dawn is behind us so I have to keep looking back on my dawn watch.We are usually having supper on the patio at sunset so have to keep jumping up to look at it or take photos as it is in front of us.We have just had frankfurters rolled in cabbage leaves for lunch.Barry was a bit disgusted when I put vegemite in as well.The bread is a bit hard and the baker is on strike with so much fish to eat.Today’s excitement was a large piece of unidentified fishing equipment which passed close by and then Per spotted. read more...


27/03/2015

American Spirit II - Day 444; We Arrive in Carriacou, Grenada & Sail Thru a Volcanic Exclusion Zone; Thursday, March 26, 2015

One year ago today:"Day 82; Hot and Sweaty, and Last Full Day in Hiva Oa; Wednesday, March 26, 2014. Rained during the night, 3:00 AM? Joel got up and closed the hatches and put recliners in the cockpit under the dodger to keep them dry. Still very bouncy in the anchorage. By bouncy I mean the bows of the boats in the anchorage are bouncing 18 inches up and down; and rolling back and forth 5 to 10 degrees.The bay or anchorage is .2 of a mile long and .14 mile wide. Called Baie Tahauku. Because we're on the side of the anchorage that the jetty is on, its less rough where we're at than on the other side of the anchorage."***************************Up at 7:00 AM. Breakfast at 7:30 AM: Eggs, bacon, potato, left over pancakes and chilled fruit cocktail. Jeanine from Civetta II and Amelia from. read more...


27/03/2015

Luna Quest - Friday, 27th March, 2015

Noon Position: 9.12S 136.05WLogged run: 90 milesMeasured run: 110 milesIt is difficult to account for the difference in the logged and measured run (i.e. measured on the chart) other than that there is asouthwesterly South Subtropical current that no doubt aids our mileage. Over a 24-hr period the current could have run at 1 knot accounting for the difference.The difference of the day before was similar, but 35 miles the previous day.We are currently enjoying moderate breezes that give us a speed of around 5 knots, which could get us into Hiva OA Saturday night. As a rule we avoid landfalls at night, but the bay where we shall be joining earlier arrivals is reasonably easy to access (Taahuku Bay) without too much ship movement or background lights.We have been advised that no fruit of. read more...


26/03/2015

Luna Quest - Thursday, 26th March, 2015

Noon Position: 8.59S 134.14WDaily run: 102 milesYesterday I reported that there were only 5 boats left to make it to Hiva OA, Luna Quest being one of them. There are actually 6, but the sixth one does not carry a long range radio and did not therefore appear on the radio fleet list of boats from which I counted the number of boats left to battle it it out not to be the last to arrive. It is now expected that some of the 6 may arrive on Saturday and some on Sunday. The winds have picked up a little and we have all enjoyed some good sailing except one, whosegenecker (i.e. a cross between a genoa and a spinnaker) got twisted round his furled-up genoa without any hope of untwisting it.Our deck is littered with lines that help us manage our parasailor. In 9 knots of wind or above it stands. read more...


26/03/2015

American Spirit II - Day 443: Our Last Full Day in Grenada; Wednesday, March 25, 2015

One year ago today:"Day 81; Fueling Day, Dinner at Follie a Deux & Joel's Hair Length; Tuesday, March 25, 2014. Up at 5:30 AM. Reading. Follie a Deux came by at 8:00 AM and invited us to dinner at their boat tonight at 6:00 PM. Follie is a 39 foot Lagoon catamaran. They also dropped off their HUKA, a battery operated compressor used to SCUBA under the boat. Joel will use it later today to clean our boat bottom."***********************************Up at 8:00 AM. Breakfast at 8:30 AM: bacon, eggs, potato and Mandarin oranges. At 9:00 AM Vlado, Jeanine and I headed to the Immigration office to advise them of our 'plan of attack' in getting Jeanine off of Vlado's crew list. After the meeting I drove Jeanine to the ferry office in St. George's, where she buys a ferry ticket to Carriacou. read more...


25/03/2015

Karma Wins - Blog 6 23 March The catch of today

As forecasted, we lost the wind so we motored most of the night.The wind picked up a little bit at dawn but the rain arrived too.We had the gennaker and main out and Karma Wins drifted along at 2-3 knots. The sun came out and it was very calm so Barry and I did some rust-removing and polishing.Per took the fuel gauge to pieces and now it sometimes works.The speedometer has taken on a life of its own and this afternoon, when we were putting up the main it said we were doing 75 knots!The dual wind-water turbine, now known as Genny for the electricity she generates, and the solar panels were producingtoo much power so we had to use a towel on the solars as a manual charge controller.A few days ago poor Genny managed to pick up a piece of netting which wrapped round her..sod’s law the whole. read more...


Karma Wins - Blog 6 23 March The catch of today
Karma Wins - Blog 6 23 March The catch of today
25/03/2015

Luna Quest - Wednesday, 25th March, 2015

Noon Position: 8.48S 132.10WDaily run: 70 miles (but 105 measured miles)Today marks the completion of a three-week period since the start from the Galapagos on March 4th. Our best ETA now for Hiva OA is Sunday, 29th March. Most of the boats are in. Just 5 are left to battle it out not to be the last. Most of us have given up motoring as there is not any wind further towards Hiva Oa to speak of.Our electronic mile counter, which I cleaned yesterday in case of under registering, counted just 70 miles from noon to noon (all noon times are Galapagos times), but the measured distance on the chart gives 105 miles. Since the Galapagos we have gone 3.5 hours further into time, but the ship’s clock remains on Galapagos times by fleet agreement from the outset. Once we are in the Marquesas, we. read more...