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Firefly - Lombok, Pilot Whales and Gunung Rinjani



Its Saturday 26th September and Firefly is en route for Medana Bay on the north west of Lombok. It was an 0530 start this morning from an Island called Kramat, a few miles off the north west coast of Sumbawa. Medana Bay is the next stop for the Sail 2 Indonesia Rally and as this is the only marina on the entire route, we have booked a berth in order to get some chores completed.

Currently we are motoring in calm conditions but did manage to sail for about 3 hours in a southerly wind as we crossed the straight between Sumbawa and Lombok. As we approached Lombok there was a staggering view of Gunung Rinjani which at 3726 metres (about 12,000 feet) is pretty tall when viewed from sea level. A pod of about 10 Pilot Whales joined us as we starting heading west around the north of Lombok. Unlike some species of dolphin, they were clearly not attracted to ride on our bow or stern waves. However, as they were heading our way we got very close and could see their very round heads and jet black skin.

A few days back, having had a final stop in the Komodo Islands at Gili Banta we made a very early start at 0300 in order to complete a passage of 100 miles, anchoring off Satonade Island on Sumbawa at 1830 just after the sun set. A combination of motoring and some excellent sailing under gennekar made it a reasonable day despite the distance traveled. On the mainland nearby is a huge volcano called Tambora which we could see surrounded by clouds as we approached. 200 years ago there was a huge eruption here and the result was the 'year with summer' for the entire world - due to the ash cloud created.

Satonade Island was also once a volcano and there is a salt water lake in what was the caldera. A dinghy ride ashore for a morning dip in the lake was fitted in before Firefly again headed west. The next destination was Moyo Island and after about 20 minutes of motoring the sea breeze blowing onto Moyo kicked in, the gennaker was unfurled and Firefly managed the 25 mile trip without using much diesel.

In the pilot book we are using, 'a cruising guide to Indonesia', the author Andy Scott suggested the anchorage at Moyo was excellent and that the diving and snorkeling were some of the best in Indonesia. We were keen to visit and to try and organise a dive if possible at the nearby Amanwana Resort. On arrival it was difficult to find a good spot to anchor. The water up the shore was very deep and we finally settled for a spot that was 15 metres deep but a little too close to the shore if the wind was to blow in that direction.

The snorkeling just off the exclusive Amanwana resort was beautiful, the whole area being a marine reserve. Landing the dinghy at the resort dock we met the divemaster, Ange from Germany and manage to arrange a 2 tank dive for early the next morning. Motoring back to Firefly we discussed our understanding of the price she had given us - it was not clear if the pricing was for each dive or both - surely it could not be that expensive if it was the former, surely it was the latter?

The diving was very memorable as the number and diversity of fish was incredible. There were so many schools of fish that the visibility was reduced. During the break between our dives, we asked Karim, the dive guide, about the celebrities that frequent the resort. He said he only really knew the Indonesian ones but had we heard of a tennis player called Sharipova? she was coming soon. That sort of explained why the cost of the diving was so expensive but it was very special having a classy dive boat to ourselves and being 'molly coddled' with fresh towels, fruit of sticks and banana bread.

A further benefit occurred as we discovered when we returned to the hotel dock. On a mooring off the hotel beach there was a yacht. This was unusual as we had read in the Pilot Guide that yachts were not allowed in front of the resort. What was even more unusual was that it looked just like Firefly. As we approached it became clear it was Firefly, about 1/2 mile from where we had left her anchored!

Arriving back at the dock there were several members of staff as well as Jeremy and Kay from Court Jester, one of the other rally yachts, waiting for us to return. Apparently in some strong offshore gusts, Firefly and a motor yacht had both dragged their anchors. Being on such a steep slope the anchor did not reset and was soon dangling off the bow and Firefly was making her way across the bay and out to sea. A joint effort between Jeremy and Kay and the hotel staff had rescued Firefly and bought her to the hotel mooring - phew! We were obviously full of gratitude - the senior guy from the hotel just said 'Sir, its no problem at all, we always look after our clients very well'

Grateful, but a little embarrassed, we made a final round of thanks and took the dinghy the short distance back to Firefly. A lovely northerly breeze filled in just a few miles from Moyo and we broad reached to Kramat Island, about 25 miles to the west. The anchor was laid very carefully in what was a much better anchorage and we reflected on the events of the day, sipping wine in the cockpit as the sun went down.

Paul and Susie

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