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Free & BrEasy - To Tonga with Love



The capital of the Kingdom of Tonga is Neiafu where we arrived early in the evening. The anchorage at Neiafu is well protected and is reached after sailing through channels and islands that create an approach unlike any to the previous ports we have visited on the circumnavigation. Later in the week, sitting in a café overlooking the anchorage it reminded us a little of the Salcombe estuary in Devon, UK - apart from the weather of course!

Despite being late, Paul and Suzana from World ARC were there to welcome us with smiles and forms, and introduce us to the very friendly Immigration and Quarantine male officers who were all wearing skirts. This is normal dress for men in Tonga and the boys in school uniform wear smart long skirts. Made a Scotsman feel quite at home!

We stayed moored to the commercial wharf so that we could deal with customs the next morning, but without their endorsement we had to miss the prize giving which was a shame because we won a prize! Instead we had a "quiet night in" and played another game of the Spanish card game, Rhonda. We play for little red seeds picked on our walks rather than money!

Walking out of Neiafu the next day, to Mt Talau, a small hill which overlooks the anchorage, there appeared to be families of wild pigs rooting in every garden and freely wandering across the road. They looked liked wild boars but were very tame and all wente trotting to their respective homes when the dinner gong was sounded by their owners. By the shore line the pigs were even searching for food on the beach and we wondered whether sea pigs taste any different. Tonga people are very religious and the pigs are slaughtered to provide food that accompanies the celebration of religious festivals during the year. Until then the pigs lead a happy carefree life with no welfare concerns.

The other notable feature of Tongan life is the numbers of schools. There are numerous children of all ages wherever you look and comparatively, fewer adults. Clearly family life is healthy and fruitful! Passing by the school playing fields, crowds of young boys were running after an object which turned out to be a rugby ball, playing a version of the game which appeared to lack rules. Rugby is very popular in the Kingdom and at least half the island turned out to watch a match played between two schools. There was an obvious absence of anyone kicking a football. We observed all this at a time when we are wondering where we will be during the forthcoming World Cup. Will we be anywhere near a TV?

The answer to this question has been complicated by Roger discovering broken strands in one of the shrouds that hold the mast up. We only have one shroud on each side and one fore stay so any failure would be catastrophic. This now will stop us sailing till we can replace all the wire rigging which can only be done in Fiji, some 500nm away! We should be able to motor there safely but it is costing Roger a lot of time sitting at a computer to make all the necessary arrangements. At the same time we are also responsible for filling in the paper work for clearing in at Fiji. World ARC have been doing much of this for us prior to arrival in previous ports but we have a free cruising period in Fiji so we are all going to different ports. To add to the complications a new mosquito-born disease has been found in Tonga, called Chickenguya, which Fiji is keen to avoid. When we arrive at our port in Fiji we have to anchor offshore and wait till the Health Officials come and spray us!

So with all this going on we have had little time for frivolous snorkelling, diving or beach combing. Alejandro has started a new business as a barber. It costs just a beer for a trim! The waters around Tonga and Fiji are well known for whale watching and we attended a great seminar on whales which wetted our appetite but we are too early in the season! Instead we have been amazed at the giant fruit bats that gather at dusk in the trees over where we are anchored. Let's hope they don't turn into vampires! We have also enjoyed the many cafes and restaurants which is another reminder of Salcombe. Lisa at Tropicana has been wonderful in helping sorting out the paperwork which has to be scanned and emailed to the Fijian authorities while we challenge any one to eat two family sized pizzas at the Aquarium - four of us tried and failed!


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