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Sumatra - Log Day 12: Highs, Lows and Happy Birthday



It's been an eventful few days. After gloating at the prospect of roast pork on Wednesday night, the wind picked up, the seas went wild and before we knew it we were heeled up and hammering forth with all the hatches battened down to protect against rogue waves. It was horrible down below decks; hot, humid and sticky, with sail bags all over the floor and salt-crusted pillows that stick to your face every time you try to turn over. Eugh. This all seemed quite luxurious however when it came time to stand watch. We found ourselves huddled into the corner of the cockpit under a flimsy hood, with driving rain hammering down overhead, howling wind making the sails buffet and groan, and water roaring by the stern as the boat rocketed on into the blackness... Thank god for auto pilot! We managed to keep all hands on deck while putting reef after reef in the mainsail. To make it worse we were heeled up on a port tack and every single locker in the galley (plus the fridge and the oven AND the locker in the bow head where all our toiletries are stored) happens to be on the port side - meaning every time a locker was opened on Wednesday night, the contents fell out and sailed across the room. So, no roast dinner. Nobody much liked the idea of a half-cooked leg of pork slipping and sliding across the floor. We had pasta with dolmio sauce instead.
 
Thursday morning dawned sunny and calm... a little too calm in fact. The wind completely disappeared and the boat speed dropped to 1-2 knots. We took the opportunity to dry everything out, opening the hatches and festooning the deck with a merry array of clothes, towels and pillows. After a brief discusson we agreed to turn the engine on and motor out of the calm. As the boat stabilised, we gave it a good spring clean, took long(ish) showers and settled in to watch The Bourne Identity down below - how civilised! After three hours we hit some wind and set sail once more. Luckily it stayed calm enough to cook the roast that evening, and what a treat it was! I think everyody slept a little better that night.
 
Friday was Alex's birthday, although none of us (including Alex) realised until about lunchtime. We popped open a bottle of cava and were sitting around enjoying ourselves when we spotted a boat on the horizon, spinnaker out, which seemed to be coming towards us. After a little while we got a call on the VHF - it was another ARC boat called Adrienne, asking if they could come alongside and take some photos with us. They said it might take them half an hour as we were moving pretty fast. Cue gleeful crowing up on decks as we congratulated ourselves on our excellent speed. So we settled in and waited for them to catch up. I baked a cake for Alex's birthday, we ate it and washed up, and still Adrienne didn't seem any closer. As the sun began to set they rang through again and admitted they couldn't catch us - a shame as it would have been nice to take some photos together. However, to be totally honest, there was an element of triumphant chest-beating onboard Sumatra as well. As we get to the pointy end of the rally, everybody is becoming more competitive, plotting and scheming how we could overtake this vessel or that. Mind you, the first cervezas still seem to appear before midday so it's not getting toooo serious.
 
Apart from a few hairy night watches like the one mentioned above, we have had some beautiful evenings out here in the Atlantic. During the first few nights, the sea was lit up with a full moon as bright as daylight, gleaming off the backs of dolphins jumping at the bow...ahhh. Now  that the moon is down to a sliver and very late to rise, we are in pitch blackness much of the time, with stars blazing overhead and phosphorescence twinkling in the water. Alex was enjoying the ambience last night when a flying fish sailed into his leg, giving him a hell of a fright... Happy birthday indeed!
 
Anyway I think it must be lunchtime - will try and do another post in a couple of days. Sending much love to all our family and friends back home, on behalf of everyone here.
 
- Maddy from SY Sumatra



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