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Firefly - Cruising the north coast of Flores, Indonesia



Its Sunday 13th of September and Firefly is sailing west along the north coast of Flores, Indonesia, towards a town called Ruing.

Firefly left World ARC 2015 in Darwin and we will be spending the next year in South East Asia before joining WARC 2016 in Cocos Keeling next September to complete our circumnavigation. From Darwin, Firefly sailed independently to Kupang where we checked into Indonesia. At Ruing we are joining the Sail2Indonesia Rally and will be travelling with the rally for our remaining time in Indonesia, until mid November. Sail2Indonesia is now in its second year and is organised by the ICA (from NZ) and is sponsored by the Indonesian Ministry of Tourism - it started in Cairns in July and we are joining part way through as that way it best suited our schedule with WARC.

North from Kupang we sailed overnight and used the Selat Boleng passage to reach the first anchorage called Kroko, a small island north of Adunara. This was a great place to get a feel for Indonesia - sun, clear and warm turquoise waters and quite a number of traditional fisherman in their wooden canoes, some with lateen rig sails. Several fishermen dropped by for a chat but none could speak more than a few words of English - so after a few Selamat Pagis (good morning) and Terima Kasiahs (Thank you) they would move on. We did buy a bunch of stubby bananas from one of them and despite them going yellow from green and appearing ripe, they are still quite tough.

From Kroko the destination was an anchorage called Gedong on the 'Scorpion's tail' of Flores but on arrival there was another yacht, the first we have seen, anchored in the only suitable place due to an onshore breeze and very deep water. As the wind was good the decision was made to sail on another 16 miles to North Hading Bay. North Hading Bay was well protected and deserted apart from a small fishing camp on the edge of the beach, with a couple of fishing canoes and a group of about 10 locals that seemed like an extended family. We did not meet them but waved on arrival and were expecting a visit but perhaps it was too late.

The local fishermen in Indonesia all seem quite noisy as well as being early risers. So at about 0600 there was lots of commotion on the beach which woke us up. With about 50 miles to sail to Batu Boga it seemed logical to head off and so the anchor was raised, the sails set and we sailed in a south easterly for about an hour. The wind then died off and followed what appears to be a pattern on this coast. In the morning before it gets hot there is a brief period with south east wind, blowing in the direction of the trade winds, expected at this time of year in Indonesia. Then it all dies away until around midday an onshore sea breeze develops, coming in from the north or north east.

The trip to Batu Boga was pleasant in a calm sea although the engine was on until the sea breeze did eventually kick in. The beautiful anchorage, enclosed by steep slopes was tucked behind a headland and on entry there was another yacht and a number of fishing boats. Space was quite limited with just a small patch for anchoring that was not really deep, the hook went down and held well and it was a pleasant calm evening. The other thing that is noisy regarding Indonesian Fishermen is there boat engines - they all have small diesels (no outboards seen as yet) and none have silencers. So at 0600 this morning we were wide awake again as several engines had 'sputtered' into life, the noise echoing around the bay.

Ruing is about 50 miles west of Batu Boga and at 1300 we are about 2/3rds of the way there. The wind followed the usual patterns and we have had a short spell reaching on port tack, some motoring and for about an hour we have been sailing on a starboard beam reach as the sea breeze is building up. The rally will be based at Ruing for about 3 or 4 days and the programme says simply that we have 'festivities'. Having traveled nearly every day since leaving Darwin it will be good to stop for a while and spend some time ashore.

Paul and Susie

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