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Free & BrEasy - Direct to Darwin



Today is suddenly Sunday again. We are two thirds the way on a non-stop 1200 mile passage from Cairns to Darwin round the top of Australia. The four of us have easily adapted into the routine of passage life with the shifting pattern of watches punctuated by meals, snatched snoozes and reading. The rest of the world could be a fantasy of our imagination and the only reality is whose watch is it next and who is going to cook? Mind you the rest of the world is far away as we journey round the sparsely inhabited regions of Northern Australia.
We left Cairns and its golden beaches 6 days ago after sorting out the batten problems and obtaining diesel. We were happy in Cairns and can understand why Australian holiday makers flock to Cairns and the "Sunshine Coast" during the cooler "winter" season. Leaving Cairns, we then worked our way in and around the little reefs spawned from the Great Barrier Reef in a sailing manoeuvre than can only be described as "Reef Dodging". Reefs lay like pearls in a necklace which we twisted our way through. To make life interesting we shared the route with 300ft plus tankers and cargo ships coming in the opposite direction at four times our speed and negotiating tight turns around reefs with a coastal passageway less than one mile wide in places. At night there was no moon so we sailed in complete darkness, blind and totally reliant on the ever accurate GPS and chart plotter. We wondered if the ancient mariners were able to sail these waters before GPS?
There was more wind than forecast so we made steady progress to the Torres Straight at the northern tip of Cape York, Queensland. We dodged around the Cape through the narrow Endeavour Channel which is free of commercial traffic which takes the Torres Straits route. We held our breaths knowing that the tidal currents would be against us but all was well with only short stretches of opposing current and slightly choppy seas because of wind over tide effects. (Slightly Mike? Not by my standards!"Annabelle)
Through the Endeavour Channel we started crossing the 400 mile Gulf of Carpenteria over the Arafura Sea. To celebrate, Roger put out the fishing rod which had been lying dormant for over a month but not before he promised to eat two consecutive meals of Tuna! No fish dinners, no fishing! After a few hours something took the hook but before Roger could get to the rod, all the line was out. Whatever was on the end was big but also dead as there was no sign of a struggle. There then followed a three hour battle to save as much line as possible as the line could hardly be reeled in. Eventually the "catch" was reeled near the boat but the line snapped before it could be identified. What was it? A turtle, a piece of wood, seaweed, a dugong, a body? One of life's many mysteries. Perhaps it was the revenge of the Tuna.
On our way we have seen no less than three Australian warships and been buzzed twice by Marine Agency aeroplanes. A very polite officer contacted us by VHF asking for our ships details and ports of embarkation and destination. We could hear other World ARC boats over the horizon from us, similarly being quizzed. These waters are heavily patrolled which, we hope, makes them secure for the humble circumnavigators.
Last night we saw the flashing light on Emu Islet at the end of Jensen Island, marking the end of our passage across the Bay of Carpenteria. We left Cairns later than planned, worried about getting to Darwin in time for Annabelle's and Alejandro's flights to Bali, but fair winds have put us in a position where we should be in Darwin in three days and in good time for the flights. In fact we may be early as there is a delay to the date of entry into the only Marina in Darwin big enough for catamarans due to ongoing repairs to the lock gates guarding the Marina entrance from the ferocious tidal range in Darwin. As long as we only experience ferocious tides in Darwin and not the crocs!
Life on board with three men has been an interesting and a happy experience, eat your heart out ladies ! lots of delicious meals prepared by Mike and Alejandro, copious cuppas and shortbread biscuits at any excuse. Three "Gentlemen" it must be emphasised, who are ever solicitous for my comfort and well being. Will I continue and sail to Bali with all this pampering? I have not quite achieved an easy relationship with the nautical way, so no! The nights spent on watch with Roger have been magic, midnight feasts with tea and biscuits followed by rum and raisin (combined not separate) chocolate.
Thank you for your patience and kindness, the lads ever ready to reassure me that Free & BrEasy is just being slapped by the waves, though it sounds as if she is being battered and may break apart to my novice ear. We have another 3 days to go, so I shall make the most of it and live in the moment as Alejandro wisely suggested, thank you for being such wonderful companions and hosts.

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