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Skyelark of London - On to Nuie



Our second ocean passage, 540nm from Suwarrow to Nuie, proved a little more challenging than the previous journey. We set off well enough, with a following trade wind and all plain sail. Sadly the wind died and we had to call upon the engine - for those interested in such things, a rather solid and utterly reliable Perkins 4236 with a delightfully reassuring low revolutions grumbling noise.

True to forecast, GRIB files by satellite email download, the wind filled in and indeed rose steadily to a good F6 - but less enjoyably, from forward of  the beam. None of us had signed on for upwind sailing, but it made a change to be heeled instead of rolling, and we cracked along at 7.5 knots or more, under 2 or 3 reefs in the main and reduced head sail.Later, as the wind eased, fishing was successful with a king fish, like a large mackeral. Then just as were preparing to hand sail off Nuie, a handsome Tuna.

Nuie is completely different. No reef, just ocean up to the cliffs ~ no sandly beach here, just 60 foot cliffs. The island is described as "an uplifted coral formation". In fact on 3 levels, from primievel earth heaves. Sea level, the first level at 60 feet then a plateau at another 60 feet up...that now forming the Tsunami evacuation level.
We moored to laid buoys, in 50m of water. Ashore, the dinghy comes alongside a stone wall and the crew clamber up steps or a ladder as the ocean swell allows. We then drew lots to operate the large electric crane to hoist the dinghy to the top of the quay. It' a boy thing.

The island tour, by the commodore and his wife of the yacht club, no yachts as there is nowhere to sail other than ocean, saw us marvelling at caves, pools, forest tracks, and well kept roadside family graves. Sadly many derelict 1960s prefab buildings, evacuated after a recent cyclone or once the younger generation could leave in the 1970s for New Zealand.

The, large, locals snack on fried yaro root spread with fried tinned corned beef. We instead spent a happy lunch hour at the WashAway bar, which is self service and pay in an honesty box basis at the end of ones stay, eating somewhat more healthily.

Yesterday saw us caught ashore in torrential rain, and one of the fleet breaking her moorings as a serious swell and strong winds unexpectedly arrived. Safely rescued, but with only minutes to spare, by an armada of 
tenders with outboards whilst her crew were tracked down to a local resturant. They had no choice but to put to sea, in deteriorating conditions...this is not Solent sailing, or for the faint hearted. The rest of the fleet, once they could get back to their yachts, tended lines and spent a fairly uncomfortable evening waiting for the weather to ease.

Sadly the welcoming arrival dance was cancelled. Apparently last year it was performed by the south village, and this year the thought was the north village might become involved. Unfortunately, a member of the dance troop  seemingly liased direct with an opposite number, unwisely omitting to write as tradition requires to the head of the village. Required to assert his authority, he apparently had no choice but to ban the display. We learned from our guide that hierarchy and custom, with elaborate and overly formal inter village communications still play a central part in the lives of the 1200 locals.

The compensating excitement of the day was the arrival of the 6 weekly inter island trading schooner, nowadays a small container ship, and the offloading of stores into a barge for ferrying ashore. The ship lays a bow anchor offshore and has long stern lines to the quay. All very weather dependent, and indeed in view of the weather we cleared customs early, so as to be able to depart should the mooring become untenable. Our next destination is the VaVaU group of nothern Tonga.

Gerard




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