Firefly - Waterfalls and 2 days on Ua Pou

We have just set sail for Nuka Hiva after a couple of great days on Ua Pou. On Friday Firefly entered the small harbour of Hakahau in the late afternoon in time to row to shore and take a look around. For a population of around 1000 the small town is well provided with facilities; a number of shops including several well stocked supermarkets, sports facilities that would put many an English town to shame, a large school and infirmary. The church is quite grand and open with a pulpit carved in the shape of a boat's bow. The town is surrounded by high mountains and stone outcrops know as the spires that dominate the settlement and provide a great backdrop, particularly at sunset.

The following day in keeping with our exercise regime while ashore, we set off on a hike to the village of Hakahetau some 16 km away. This took us up into the foothills of the spires and along the coast and past the small airport. The distance was ambitious for a day hike but we expected to be able to hitch hike some of the way. Fortunately we picked up lifts from 4x4 trucks, one a rather bouncy utilities truck and when we weren't holding on for dear life could enjoy some fantastic views. Once in Hakahetau we walked up a valley and eventually found a splendid waterfall - Manfred Falls, a cascade of about 30 foot where we took a refreshing dip (this is becoming a habit) and then walked back into the village in search of lunch. We met a local man called Hollar who kindly showed us the only restaurant run by an ex French Naval Sailor and his wife. After initially saying that 'manger was finit' as only a frenchman can, he relented and prepared us a delicious lunch of Acra (a kind of shellfish) washed down with local fresh mango juice and Tahiti brewed Hinano Beer. For a negotiated fee Hollar drove us back to Hakahau with small detours to meet his artisan mother who made hats, change a flat tire and call into the supermarket for provisions.

Earlier in the day we booked up a restaurant for supper and were joined by John and Jane off Seaduced for poisson cru (local fish marinated in lime juice and soaked in coconut milk) followed by pizzas topped with local fish and meats.

Following discussion with the skipper of NDS Darwin and other boats we are now heading in convoy to Hakatea (everywhere have similar names here) on Nuka Hiva where it will be a relatively short walk to the Vaipo waterfall, the highest in Polynesia and the third tallest in the world. So our tour of the 'cascades' continues.

Paul, David and Peter