Greetings from the Habits of Health,
We are fully into Day 6 of our amazing journey to Tortola. Right now we are on a port tack with winds coming from the northeast. Behind us is a gentle following sea that is providing us with a very smooth and comfortable ride. Cooler temperatures today make this sail peaceful and relaxing.
We are now in the warm waters of the Caribbean Ocean, roughly 250 miles from the finish line. To our west is the Dominican Republic on the island of Hispaniola and to our south are the British and US Virgin Islands.
Every time I sail here I am always struck with the realization that these waters, these skies, and these stars are the very same waters, skies, and stars that Columbus experienced well over 500 years ago. I often wonder what he and his crew may have been thinking the very first time they made the passage from Spain to the Americas: How much further would they have to go? What would they discover? Would they perish at sea? Would they find what they were seeking? Would they be able to get back home to Spain?
I marvel at the courage and leadership it must have taken to Captain that small fleet of three vessels and to sail in these uncharted waters with no guaranteed outcome and the very real possibility of disaster. I also think about the skill and grit it must have taken to sail in those old square-rigger boats. How different their technology was from that of today. Here we are now, sailing in a state-of-the art sailboat with all of the conveniences and safety you can imagine and at a level of comfort those ancient mariners would not believe. The reality of their conditions was harsh, difficult, and unforgiving. And, although we may never think of it, we owe a debt of gratitude to those early sailors whose dreams and bravery led them to exploration and discovery.
Sailing the Deep Blue Sea
As I write this, we are currently sailing over the Puerto Rico Trench, a massive canyon in the ocean floor. Below us is over 28,000 feet of water… imagine, nearly as much water below sea level as Mt. Everest is above sea level! It’s always a bit unnerving to think about this reality especially when you are right over it! I know someone can drown in a few inches of water… but there is something about knowing there is nearly 5 miles of water below you! By the way, geologists tell us this trench is still forming as the Atlantic oceans widens with the movement of the tectonic plates and geologic forces below.
Our Progress Since I Last Wrote
I finished my correspondence with you yesterday in late afternoon just before we were about to eat dinner. Let me get you up to date with what transpired since then. We had another fabulous dinner in the cockpit and settled in for the evening. But, after a sunny picture-perfect day our conditions started to change as nighttime fell. Clouds filled the skies and it started to rain.
Because of the change in our conditions, Captain Wayne took the first watch from 9:30 PM to 1 AM. During his watch, the winds rotated from the west to the north and eventually to the northeast. As a result, the Captain adjusted the sails accordingly and tacked from starboard to port. This made for a more comfortable ride and also for a more comfortable sleep for those of us not on watch.
Lori was next on watch with hers starting at 1 AM. She was supposed to be relieved by me at 4:30 AM but instead was feeling wide-awake and kindly didn’t wake me up until close to 5:30, giving me another hour of sleep, which I appreciated.
So I began my watch at 5:30…just in time to see another sunrise. Around the same time, Terri and David, who had the night off for being on watch both woke up early and joined me in the cockpit.
It rained off an on during the night and into the morning and as day broke we were greeted with a panorama of the rich pastels of an overcast tropical sky. Down here, an overcast day is not simply shades of black, white and gray. On the contrary, here the gray skies are slate gray or silver-blue or a variety of shades in between. And, as the morning progressed, the rains abated. Since then, the sail today has been smooth, calming, and relaxing as I mentioned earlier.
Seabirds and Boats
For the past couple of days – and because we are getting closer to land – we’ve had more sightings of sea birds. Yesterday we were entertained by a brown booby flying alongside us for over two hours. This aerodynamic and skilled flyer with his big yellow raincoat-colored feet was following us for a very good reason… as the Habits cuts through the water it regularly stirs up flying fish that dart – often for long distances – over the tops of waves. And, when this happens, the brown booby is not far behind looking for an opportunity to eat breakfast.
The bird would soar back and forth over the mast of the boat – or just to one side or the other - and then, in kamikaze fashion, would dive into the waves or swoop down, turn, and skim the crest of the waves in pursuit of his prize. It was a lot of fun to watch!
Today we’ve been visited by a few more birds…mostly terns. And as we get closer to land, we are eagerly anticipating that the frequency of our sightings will dramatically increase.
In early afternoon today we spotted a large freighter sailing to our starboard on a northerly route. The vessel passed us at about 3 miles away. Also this afternoon we caught a glimpse of the mast and sails of a sailboat near the horizon about 6 miles away.
Tonight
In a few hours we’ll be settling in for our evening’s routine: another tasty dinner in the cockpit with a muted sunset tonight. Then, depending on conditions, we’ll figure our watches. We are figuring that this will be our last night at sea. Depending upon wind and conditions, we hope to have the Habits crossing the finish line and safely in harbor by late tomorrow evening.
A Thank You
As I sign off today, all of my crewmates and I want to acknowledge and thank those of you who have held us in your thoughts and prayers as we’ve traveled on this odyssey from the mouth of the Chesapeake to the warm waters of the Sir Frances Drake Channel in the BVI. Your concerns for our safety and your support are greatly appreciated and mean more to us than you know.
Until next time, this is crewmember, Dan, signing off