The crossing from Thursday Island went really well for us. When we could finally be arsed to put up the parasail, we shot off leaving more worthy boats in our wake. For two nights I was cursing the fact that the wind angle for the parasail was sending us North, however, it actually meant we stayed with the wind and made better progress, putting a Southerly bias in our course the next day. When we got to the mouth of the passage into Darwin we took the parasail down just before the accelerated winds (hows that for accidental timing) and then had no wind at all through the tight passage. So we had 17 hours of motor sailing into Darwin itself arriving very early on a beautiful morning, with our passage companions Dreamcatcher and Zoe (who motored in ahead of us).
We then spent most of the morning anchored in the beautifully named Fannie Bay waiting for the stuff that the Australia Quarantine department's divers had squirted up Matilda's flues to take effect. Even though we had arrived from Thursday Island, the area is deemed a special zone so we have to be treated as if we came from anywhere in the Torres Strait. Apparently they have had a few nasty infestations of foreign beasties so are taking no chances.
Once done, we headed off towards the marina, accessible only at high tide via a lock - oh lovely, more fun and games. Actually it went very well, thanks to Jonathan's masterful helming and my (for once) management of the mooring lines. Rodders, the lockman, was also pretty good ably assisted by his faithful sidekick Ruby - his staffie terrier - who Jonathan was coveting the entire time of our stay. (She got very confused when the boat Ruby came in as she kept getting all excited when she heard her name being mentioned on the radio). An honourable mention should also got to all the wonderful World ARCers who came to our assistance on tying up. We decided to reverse in, and without bow thrusters Matilda is very reluctant to go backwards into anywhere.
The first day we went for a walk around the town and carried out a few chores. We also decided to hire a cheap campervan to visit Kakadu National Park and possibly Katherine Gorge, but not before the prizegiving! Yes, we have at last won a leg!!! Unfortunately we were so used to coming behind other boats, Jonathan had taken this inopportune moment to have a bathroom break so I was forced to take all the adulation myself - what a bummer. On top of that we won a gift voucher at the local high class fish and chippery, so we were very happy.
We set off the next day for Kakadu with Caroline and David from Peat Smoke taking up the rear. As we didn't know where we needed to go in such a short space of time (3 days) we decided to go for guidance at the visitor's centre. I think the lady behind the counter had to go for a lie down after seeing us, she certainly glazed over when we all spoke at once on all the different stuff we each wanted to see. However, thanks to a very helpful grey nomad in a much posher campervan, we decided to stay in a campsite near yellow waters and take an early morning cruise the next day. That night the boys cooked up a storm on the barbecue and we were joined by Mark and Carole from Bronwyn who were on a bus tour that also stayed over at the site.
The Yellow River cruise was amazing. We lost count of the number of saltwater crocodiles we got up close and personal with, but the birds really made it. We saw several types of crane, sea eagles, osprey, several types of very colourful kingfisher, darters and many many more. All set in the most beautiful setting at sunrise. What a start to the day.
After we had breakfast (a five star hotel type all included in the price) we headed out to a waterfall and plunge pool, Maguk, at the end of a four wheel drive, heavily corrugated, road. The walk to the falls was spectacular but the pool itself was magical, with very few other people there. Jonathan and David immediately stripped off and went swimming, but myself and Caroline decided to pass, we had seen too many crocs that morning and there were signs all over the place to watch our for Freshies.
We then headed towards Katherine and spent the night at the campsite at Nitmuluk (I think) the aboriginal name for the Katherine Gorge. Another magical evening listing to live music by the swimming pool and watching 3 kookaburras and numerous bats swoop over the pool catching insects.
The Katherine Gorge was wonderful and made us want to see way more of it (there are numerous other gorges in the system). You can actually hire canoes to tour up to 5 of the gorges, including an overnight stay. This was quite surprising considering how many Freshwater crocodiles we saw (including several babies), but they trap the salties and apparently the freshies cannot do you any real harm.
Before heading back for Darwin we relaxed at the Katherine Hot Springs and drove through some major controlled bushfires before getting back to the boat at a reasonable time.
Now we're all fuelled-up, watered-up and provisioned, ready for our crossing to Bali. We had a great start, beating out of Darwin Harbour and we're now surprised to be near the front of the fleet after a couple of hours of sailing! We've just enjoyed a delicious lunch and we're settling in for the week or so at sea between us and Bali. We will be meeting Heather's Brother Steve and his wife Julie there, so we're looking forward to lots of fun touring about with them!