Voyageur - Leg 3 - Log 1 Focusing on Finisterre

9 June

The previous day was spent in a hive of activity. I went off in search of a decent sized supermarket, the one at the marina being limited in its products and found one in the old quarter of the town packed with little old ladies doing their shopping and so I joined them too. Two more trips and I had everything I needed. I still am amazed at the prices here and can buy double the amount for my money than I ever could in the Caribbean and as far as I could see none of the produce is imported. They even grow cherries and kiwi fruit. Donald put David up the mast for a rigging check and changed the mizzen outhaul which was showing signs of chafe. David did all his usual engine checks, fuel filters, impellers etc. Then they checked out and studied the weather again. There is much concern over this Atlantic depression but the general consensus among the boats heading for Northern Europe is that we have time to head for La Coruna in the north west corner of Spain so that is our plan. We said farewell to Lyall and Kieran who had looked after us so well and will miss the luxury of always having a yellow shirt waiting on the dock to take the lines no matter what time of the day or night. By evening the weather was really dreich, but we dined in a local fish restaurant, all having excellent locally caught salt water fish. Young German couple Felix and Louisa from yacht Pinta, a Hallberbg Rassy 42, came by for another chat with David and Donald on the weather. They really are the most amazing pair. Louisa had never sailed until she stepped on board the boat and headed across the Atlantic with the ARC last year and still only in their twenties. They are real role models for their generation. It is always good to talk weather strategies over with others and that is why I am so pleased that Donald is with us for this trip. His input is invaluable. Next morning after a last look at the weather which had not changed from the day before, we decided to leave, with Pinta, just ahead of us, Emilia and Endo 2 behind. We slipped the lines at 9.30 and headed out of a still misty, murky harbour. All the sails went up but too soon we found ourselves in a lee with limp and flapping sails so we continued motor sailing along the south east coast which became more majestic as the clouds rolled away. Puffs of smoke from fumeroles all added to the atmosphere of the mighty volcanic island that it is. As we cleared the end of the island we were out into lovely sunshine, dolphins sweeping across to play in our bow wave in a gesture of farewell. Almost immediately the wind filled in from the south west. Voyageur’s reins were unleashed and she took off with Donald and I even having to take two reefs in the genoa, the effects of the high mountains creating an acceleration zone.

Susan Mackay