Saturday 7th April: Baie Taiohae, Nuku Hiva, Iles Marquises, South Pacific Ocean 8 55.60S 140 06.4W
Today’s Blog by David (Time zone UTC -9.5 (sic))
Mr Pasta-and-bits branches out
We arrived in Nuku Hiva having caught a sensible sized SkipJack Tuna which Mr Pasta-and-bits turned into a rather tasty “Tuna in ginger and coconut sauce”; served with rice it quite hit the spot. Hmmm.
The Crew Trek Out from Daniel’s Bay
We had a very pleasant anchorage – virtually no swell so the boat didn’t roll at all. We spent a very comfortable Tuesday night.
Wednesday saw the team trek into the Enchanted Rain Forest in search of a much vaunted 2000ft waterfall – apparently the 3rd highest in the world.. We went ashore and anchored our dinghy off (image003 ; image004 ). And then we set off up the valley. It was really lovely. The few people who farmed there really cared about the place and it showed in their houses and gardens ( image007 ). This was the local church, under a simple gabled roof, apparently in someone’s garden. However, on enquiry as to whether it was dedicated to her family we learned that Tout le Monde is welcome ( image008 ). We trekked further into the Enchanted Rain Forest, climbing rocks and fording rivers ( image011 ). The locals had helpful marked the way using stone cairns; each time we lost faith in our directions we were encouraged by another handful of stones piled on top of a rock. Penetrating further and further into the forest we eventually had our first sight of the waterfall ( image012 ). This was our first sight of it - and it turned out our best sight too. We trekked for a further hour ever deeper… and when we reached the foot while we could look up, we couldn’t see more than the bottom 150 feet of the waterfall which otherwise was hidden behind fallen rocks etc. The pool at the bottom was said to be dangerous – falling rocks – and big ones at that – make swimming something of a stretch. That didn’t stop the locals tempting us across with cairns though ( image012 ). Good luck to anyone who goes there! Finally, on the way back to the village, it seemed that the French “Doctor Who” was in town ( image006 ).
Being French ‘owned’ (don’t really understand their precise status) the islands are well looked after. Good roads around town, power to every house – and if not good solar power systems – and also water available to every house – albeit on stand pipes…. and telephone boxes in the most unlikely places. This one had its own microwave link!
Thursday saw us repair here to Taiohae Bay, to await Simone’s arrival. Taiohae is the principal town of both Nuku Kiva and also the whole of the Marquesas Islands. Larger than Atuona, Hiva Oa but not any more developed. Two supermarkets, a handful of restaurants, but at least we have been able to fill u with diesel and gas.
Fresh food continues to be a problem. Very little fruit is in season and presently on Huku Hiva, there are no onions or potatoes!!!
Anyway – that’s it, I need to leave in 40 minute to collect SWMBO.