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Matilda - Iles Marquises - Breadfruit Bashing, Tattoos and Pig Hunts



Is this Paradise? - it cannot be far off. The scenery is stunning, the climate tropical, the people friendly, French baking, Euro standard cleanliness and the local beer isn't bad. The cons are the nonos (a small insect that swarms around at twilight - looks like a midge, bites like a piranha) and most things to buy from outside the islands are tres cher (very expensive).

We arrived in Hiva Oa early on Monday 26 March after a very bumpy and sleep deprived night. What a bay to enter - verdant high mountains sheltering this little inlet. The other remaining World ARC boats gave a wonderful welcome in the harbour, or at least those that had surfaced, it was a great finish to a frustrating leg.

The following night we went up to Alex's place to celebrate Joachim (of Chessie's) birthday. Alex's life story should be made into a film but it might sound too far fetched. He joined the French foreign legion at an early age and was posted to wonderful places such as Somalia. He must have been posted here at some stage because he married a local girl to make a home in the hills (with another place in the Dordoign) with 5 children to follow. They have turned their house into a very relaxed bar and restaurant with a spectacular view and use of their pool, pool table and table football. For Joachim's birthday they pulled out all the stops. There was a tattooist (more about tattoos later) who did a celebratory tattoo for Jutta (Joachim's wife) a band and ceremonial costumes for the happy couple - they looked magnificent. It was a very memorable night. A special mention should go to Joel who managed to keep the kids happy in the pool for hours and still had enough energy to actively partake in the aqua-acrobatics and tower constructions overseen by Janet of At Last. I am kicking myself for not seeing Kathy of Southern Cross go up on Joel's shoulders, just hope the moment has been captured somewhere.

The following day we went into town to the bank and got involved in a school fete type event where there were lots of opportunities for the kids to experience some of their traditional activities. It was fascinating watching breadfruit being cooked and prepared (pounded in a beautifully carved bowl with, how shall I put it, a pestle clearly made to look like a male appendage - ho hum, very traditional apparently, and we are definitely not in Yorkshire now). There was a drumming workshop and the tattooists were hard at it again. The girls were all wearing the most beautiful floral head-dresses being made on the spot by some very skilled ladies. I missed out despite invitation, as I felt it was a bit cheeky to claim one as we are only passing through.

About the tattoos. Tattoos have always been important to Polynesian cultures and unlike a lot of places that were 'colonised' the Marquisians were allowed to continue the practice. However, even before Marquisian tattoos were seen as the height of the art - and it really is an art form here. Even I, traditionally not a fan of the ink, love a lot of the designs and the way they are worn. However I am told you have to be a bit careful, where the tattoo is and what it represents are all highly significant. Jonathan wants one, but indecision has scuppered the plan so far. (He even went as far as to have a turtle themed one drawn out but decided it didn't make the grade).

We wanted to stay in Hiva Oa until Peat Smoke came in so we could take part in the welcoming of the last World ARC boat (particularly as they had such a trying crossing). However we also wanted to get the bottom of the boat scrubbed and see something of the islands, so we went for an overnighter to the most amazing bay on the next island of Tahuata, about a 2 hour sail away. It has all that a bay in paradise should have. Clear water to a sandy bottom, an empty beach edged with palm trees, colourful fish amongst the rocks at the edge of the bay. Never has been cleaning the bottom of a yacht been so enjoyable. I had three puffer fish following me, fighting over the various sea life I was scraping off. Every time I looked around their beautiful big eyes were looking up at me begging for more, it was like being followed by 3 aquatic labradors.

Peat Smoke made it in last Friday afternoon and they wasted no time in arranging a dinner at the Pearl Resort on the top of the hill above the harbour (one of the few resorts here). Again a memorable evening, use of their infinity pool and excellent food.

Yesterday we sailed to Fatu Hiva and are now riding at anchor in the Bay of Virgins. We arrived in the early evening to rain squalls, so the mountains were encased in rainbows that spilled over the sheer cliffs into the dark turquoise sea. Needless to say this is another amazing place. The bay is lined with distinctive tall stone pinnacles that, so the story goes, gave its original name of The Bay of, well here we go again, male appendages. However the church didn't like this so changed the French around a bit to make Bay of Virgins. How to describe it - think Jurassic Park meets South Pacific. Today we dinghied into the village and within 10 minutes Jonathan had been invited to join a pig hunt that was setting out (a bit of a tradition among the younger blokes, they breed lots of dogs to flush the wild pigs out on a nearby uninhabited island and then shoot them). Jonathan made his excuses (I am pretty sure he said I was the main one)- I think his knowledge of the lingo could get him into a lot of trouble here. We then walked/scrambled to a very tall and beautiful waterfall outside of the village. We were so hot it was impossible to resist swimming in the splashpool, but that was a bit nippy so I didn't stay in long. Tonight we will eat at a local ladies house (with Caroline and David of Peat Smoke - the crew from Zoe were there last night) - lets hope breadfruit chips are on the menu, our favourite.

Tomorrow we hope to start the sail to Nuku Hiva, to refuel and see the third tallest waterfall in the world, stopping off on the way at Tahuata to do a bit more lotus eating. Do I need mention we are both fine and spirits high?

Hope all is well with you and we will post photos as soon as we can find a reliable internet connection (which has been a problem).

Cheers,
Heather and Jonathan xoxo


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