4 March 2011
Francisco Brennand was not known to us but having read of his work in a tourist brochure we were keen to find out more. A visit to Oficina Brennand is not to be missed and for us the highlight of our stay here in Recife. But before that we went first to see his work at the Sculptures Park, a five minute ferry boat ride across the channel to the reef that separates the city from the sea. The main attraction here was a 32metre high column of concrete, clay, ceramic and bronze. This obelisk is a real landmark and can be seen from Marco Zero Square on the opposite bank and it was clear to see the influence that Gaudi had in this sculptor/artist's piece of sculpture. The park was opened in 2000 to celebrate the 500 years since the discovery of Brazil, but it really was a disgrace for it had been allowed to deteriorate badly.
However Oficina Brennand situated close to the Capibaribe River in the midst of Atlantic Forest in the Varzea district of Recife, was immaculately tended, a jewel in the crown of Pernambuco State. Created from the old brick and tile factory inherited from his father, he has spent 37 years creating this astounding architectural landscape. Sculptor, architect and artist, he was clearly very talented. Along with Jenny and John we hailed a taxi and after an hour's long drive in heavy traffic emerged from a rundown housing estate to find this real treasure. It is an indoor and outdoor museum, a temple, a sanctuary built upon a background of sacred earth. His work is prolific and even now at eighty four he is still working on the site. He had made clever use of the factory buildings, kilns and machinery and the grounds to display over 2000 exhibits. His interpretation of the Taj Mahal was extraordinarily clever but my favourite pieces turned out to be the head of Neptune, a marineiro, but most of all was the wonderful head of Feiticeiro which translates as wizard but I would have described her as a goddess. The Temple of Sacrifice had an albatross, a wall plaque with a quote from Coleridge's Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner. It is interesting that I always choose things which relate to the sea. His sculptures are mythological, sensual and earthy, and are enhanced by the gardens that were landscaped by Brue Marx, Brazil's most famous landscaper. Beautiful real life black swans in the water features matched the majestic effect of their surroundings. The Accademia building was opened in 2003 and houses 200 of his paintings and drawings. Even our taxi driver took the opportunity to view his work. He knew of it but had never been there. I thought how lovely it was that not only did he benefit from the handsome 100 Reais fare but also from the little piece of culture thrown in. The encore of the experience was the church. We almost missed it as we sped by but we urged our taxi driver to stop. It was a building of sheer simplistic beauty, an absolute work of art. Situated near a shimmering lake, surely this is his chosen place of rest.....