2 March 2011
Cabanga Yacht Club hosted a welcome party for the fleet of eleven boats that have now berthed here. We have often noticed that those with the least have the most to give. The drinks flowed all evening long, indeed there were so many waiting staff that our glasses never got the chance to empty. The appetisers were simply delicious and then followed a lovely two course dinner. I really think it was the best spread of the entire rally. Local dancers entertained us and were very happy and enthusiastic to invite all of us to dance along with them. I think they loved the fact that so many of us were willing to join in. We received amazing presents too. Shoulder bags and tee shirts from the yacht club and then there were our 'carnival' goody bags. This included another tee shirt, the wearing of which is compulsory, flip flops, sun hat and back packs. So now we are all set. Carnival here we come.....
Recife on tour.....
Up for an early start at 8am we went first into the heart of the city. We were hugely impressed with its fine buildings and the whole of the dock area is under renovation. This city will really be worth visiting in ten years time. What struck me most was the colour. They use a whole painter's palate and the result is that of a colourful, exciting vibrant place. They were gearing up for carnival in three days time. Our first stop was at the Marco Zero Plaza where a huge stage was being erected for the bands. Carnival is to last for four days. Will we have the stamina? Our guide warned us that there will be a million people on the streets. The city of Recife is formed by three islands, Ilha do Reife, Santo Antonio and Boa Vista, with beautiful bridges interconnecting giving it the moniker of the "Brazilian Venice". The name Recife means reefs, and was so named for it has 6km of natural reef although much has been removed to be used in the construction of its buildings. We walked through its maze of streets awed with its fine colonial architecture. Bunting decorated the streets and giant figures hung overhead. I cannot begin to imagine what all this glitzy carnival decoration is costing the city.
The Doll's House was a museum housing life like figures that will be worn during the parade, from politicians to footballers to film stars. Opposite was a shop selling carnival outfits, masks, and hats and they did roaring trade as we all kitted ourselves out for the big day. The picturesque town of Olinda, a UNESCO World Heritage Centre was our next stop on the tour. It is one of the oldest and best preserved colonial cities in Brazil and its name means beautiful. As we meandered through its streets of colourful houses we had the impression that this was place of artisans and painters. All the houses were a different shade, every colour of the rainbow, just like the umbrellas that are sold on every street corner.
The umbrella is a symbol of Olinda. The story goes that when they returned home drunk they couldn't see the number but they could recognize their home by its colour! Does that apply to Tobermory I wonder?..... The Cathedral Alto da Se, dating from 1637 was simple and it was from here that we had the most wonderful views of the reefs and city. The final venue on our city tour was Casa da Cultura, the old prison converted into a market. Each cell was a tiny shop outlet. After lunch in a weigh and pay restaurant we took a short walk to look at its best loved beach, Boa Viagem. Packed with people but not so many bathers. There was a sign which said that there was a better than average risk of shark attack. It prompted me to remember that on our last morning at sea I had seen a black fin alongside the boat at dawn that was definitely not a dolphin!
Susan Mackay