Cleone - in Cairns

All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy.

 

Only I hope not.  There have been great changes since I last put fingers to keys.  When we anchored off the Marina in Cairns waiting to be allowed to enter the Marina and clear Customs and Quarantine, we were pleasantly surprised; the fleet was not in Yorkey's Knob, they were in Cairns!  For us this was great; Cairns was where we needed to be.  It's a holiday city - the place really buzzes - but one where there is everthing for the care of the yachtsman and his yacht.  There are boatyards which were ready and willing to lift any sized vessel out of the water, chandleries full of all the bits and pieces you could ever need and skilled tradesmen, who, at a price, could fix anything at all that was broken or missing. Cleone wasn't really tired, but she was a little bit jaded and was in need of some tlc (which for a boat equates to dollars or pounds and a lot of elbow grease).  Weed was growing off her undersides, the sails were shot, her lifesaving gear was looking distinctly second-hand, there was a bent stanchion, the loo bowl was cracked, and some of the rigging needed modifications.  And who would grudge her this tlc - we've sailed her hard, and she has looked after us wonderfully.  As for the crew, they needed a bit of the same - a handy bar, a handier shower, a laundrette and plenty of pals to share their thirsts!

 

Long before we arrived, the Skipper had been busy with emails, and last Monday morning we motored round to the Big Boat Shed.  Precisely on time, we arrived off the Cairns Cruising Yacht Squadron (big name, that, for what's really a boat yard) to find the hoist ready and waiting for us.  We eased gently in between the concrete piles, and soon Cleone was out of the water.  The Skipper busied himself with a jet wash, and all of her weed and barnacles and half of Cleone's previous coat of antifoul was soon finding its way down the drain.  A weed-free Cleone was then trundled across the main road and into a space next to the gate in the fence surrounding the Big Boat Shed, an old aircraft hanger now given over to various small businesses such as boat-building, painting and fibre-glass work.  At this point, Elizabeth and Will disappeared, and Nicola went off to arrange for some serious diving.  This left Norfy and the Skipper to don their overalls, and rub off some of the remaining anti-fouling to get ready for a couple of days of arduous painting.  Tradesmen came and went - John the sailmaker, Damian the welder, and Peter the Rigger among them.  Bruce the Yard Foreman was on hand with practical advice and the occasional strong pair of arms (try lifting Cleone's rudder when you next see her - it's at least 2 hundredweight (100 kilos)), and the wonderfully efficient Helen was always ready to make helpful telephone calls and coordinate logistic support.  And thanks to Norfy's hire-car, we were able to visit the Battery Man, the chandleries, the DIY supermarket and everywhere else besides.  It was hard work, and we were both paint-spattered from head to foot, but the results were worth it.  It left us with indelible memories of cheerful obliging people with a great sense of humour, and a real willingness to help.  To sum this up, the most common expression we heard after "gudday, mate!" (Australian for "good morning, sir" or equally "good morning, madam") was "no worries".  This latter has two meanings.  One: "it's nice of you to thank me, but think nothing of it" and two, and much more important: "I understand you have a problem, and I think I know what it is.  I reckon I can help, and I will do my damndest to make sure I do!".  And they were as good as their word.

 

As far as the Rally goes, only two boats went up to Yorkey's Knob (what a name, eh?), whilst about 16 based themselves in Cairns.  What did the three newly joined yachts, waiting for us at Yorkey's Knob, make of that, I wonder?  Even when Cleone left Cairns today, there were still 12 boats in the Marina or ashore in Cairns.  After our months in fabulous countries, where yachting is not a national priority, most yachts were tired or damaged, and most were in need of major or minor professional services.  Many boats were hauled out by Cairns' wonderfully competent boatyards, and just about all received professional attention of some kind.   Such services were obviously more easily available in in Cairns - Yorkey's Knob is a pretty place, but not ideally placed for technical work. 

 

Finally it is sad to report that several boats have left us in Australia, and several of these were unexpected departures.  For World Crusing and for the rest of us, this is sad - it's like losing family members.  But those remaining are a tough bunch of dedicated yachtsmen (I nearly wrote "amateurs", but I know the Skipper dislikes this expression) who are determined to see this thing through, and to have fun doing so.  We've all apprciated the support the Rally has provided to us, and we are all united in our desire to get on with it.  And we've greatly appreciated your support too.  Many thanks - Australia may not be quite half-way round the world, but it's a real watershed, and we feel a great sense of achievement.