Wednesday 16th July & Thursday 17th July
The Jus’do it’s ARE leaving today… but first of all we’ve arranged to have breakfast at the little French café with Paul, Andy and Andreas. There we meet Gerry and Izolda of Northern Skies – more farewells. Then it’s a quick trip to the duty free to buy an ipod station as the music system has packed in and all have the distinct impression Kevin that will not survive without music! Phil gets his supply of booze and fags, then we’re back to the boat – more goodbyes to Phil and Fay, James , Andreas, Jens, Johanna and others, then we’re untied and waved off. While motoring out Andante radio to warn of big seas and a lot of wind. The sails are up before leaving the bay and it’s a beam reach. About one hour out Ian quickly has to alter course as 3 large humpback whales cross our bow – we’re very lucky Ian spotted them in time – they’re much bigger than us and would could have caused a major catastrophe. They’re the biggest anyone has seen so close and everyone gets a great view. By this time we’re all soaked as there’s been some big waves crashing over. Everyone rushes down to get on the wetties (too late as usual) and once back up top we notice that Kevin has gone a pale shade of green. He stays up top for a while but is soon down below, face in a bucket. He’s not seen at all for several hours then suddenly appears for his night watch having made a miraculous recovery. It’s a hard sail but by dawn the seas have calmed down a little. By mid-day Lifou Island is in sight but instead of heading for the main town of “We” to enter, the decision is made to head for another anchorage in the lee of the island to get better shelter and what sounds like a better anchorage.
During the approach (using the cruising guide disc kindly gifted by Phil and Fay as the chart plotter is way out) everyone is on lookout as there are some big coral heads around. Thankfully the cruising guide is accurate and we’re soon anchored in 9 metres of crystal clear water. Even although the sun is not shining we can see where the anchor has landed and dug into the sand and while studying this see several turtles go by. Ian, Annie, Stewy, Alex and Kevin go ashore to try and clear customs. Phil’s staying aboard for a bit of rest and relaxation. There’s a little protected harbour inside the coral which some local men wave us towards. It’s a pretty, sleepy little village and everyone is friendly and says “bonjour”. We head to the Gendarmerie where the nice young gendarme (nice enough for Alex to find an excuse for a photo!) tells them they are the first yachties he has seen (he is on a 3 month placement from Bordeaux right enough) .Even after consultation with his senior they clearly don’t know what to do with us and seem happy enough when we decide to forget customs, hire a car and make the most of the short time here. The island is a raised coral plateau with tall, spindly pine trees lining the coast. The harbour in We is small and is not as settled as Bay de Santal – we’ve made the right decision. We stop for a drink then head back to look for the little restaurant near our bay that the young gendarme recommended. It looks good but Alex is up for a quiet night aboard so Ian and Annie run her back and collect Phil. It’s an excellent meal of prawns and steaks in the middle of nowhere – surprisingly good.