Thursday 10th July
A lot of the boats are leaving this morning – Kieron comes for Palmerston photos and boiled eggs. Rosie from Kealoha has arranged another car tour but when everyone arrives the itinerary has completely changed as there’s been a family fallout in one of the villages. While alternatives are being discussed – Ian, Annie, Stewy and Alex all go to the little local museum where we learn more about local customs and see a painting of a cannibal feast that a British artist witnessed in this very village in the 1800s. On the car tour there’s a visit to a tree house built high in a huge banyan tree – both very common here. Everyone is squashed into a pick- up truck and we’re again hanging on for dear life while also trying hard to avoid a whipping from branches and trees as we trundle past. The roads are undoubtedly the worst yet and that is saying something. The driver takes the group over barren ash flat-lands at one side of the volcano (we’re again covered in ash), then onto a cargo cult village (Jon Frum Cult – very interesting – look it up). The villages on Tanna are the most primitive we have seen yet – people are living much as they did hundreds of years ago - very self sufficient and with no signs of any outside help or support. Back at the yacht club everyone has a laugh at Alex and Annie’s panda eyes and black noses when they take off their sun-glasses. It’s then a weary wait (the yacht club seldom has any beer or even soft drinks to sell) for Phil who’s due to arrive with some kealoha crew this afternoon. Just when we’re starting to worry, the crews arrive - albeit a tad dishevelled! All but Phil, of course ,who looks as smart as a dart – something to do with first class all the way perhaps! They have all had an extremely long 2 hour ride from the airport in the back of a pick up truck sitting on a plank. Phil reckons the bones of his arse are through so declines the offer of a ride up the volcano later on. That evening there’s a BBQ at the yacht club and another Kava drinking session with the boats that are left. The Kava is not at all tasty, in fact it’s quite awful – dirty brown grainy liquid which is made by chewing the Kava roots then concocting the brew – yeuchhh… However, we pinch our noses and get it down – this will be the last time - and surprisingly it has the desired affect. We’re all pleasantly merry and after another excellent night head home for a very solid sleep!