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Exody - Days 157 - 165 : Gooood Mooorning Savusavu



... was the cheery morning call of resident sea-salt Curly Carswell, running the daily cruisers net from his houseboat in the well protected Nakama creek on Fiji's northern and second largest island Vanua Levu. Curly provides weather and routing advice to yachties as well as selling fishing lures- guaranteed to work if you put them in the water!

The creek, brown from the overnight torrential rain, is full of yacht moorings virtually all occupied as we arrive on Tuesday 16th June and pick one up immediately in front of the busy bus station and market. Dolly Singh from the small Coprashed marina, where we had a reservation, later politely explains that unfortunately no-one had left! The attractions and services of this small town seem to grow on visitors and this, combined with the wet and windy weather, caused us and others to stay for several days longer than planned.


Hospital ship USNS Mercy was anchored off and using the small Coprashed Marina as the transfer point for both ambulant patients and the 1000 volunteers and staff - on duty in their crisp camouflage fatigues in navy and khaki, off duty for shore leave in civvies. When the helicopters were overhead and the cafe full of American accents, it felt like we had walked into an episode of MASH!

We had left for the 120 mile sail from the Bay of Islands in the Lau Group after a half day dinghy tour of the fantastic caves, coves and lagoons within this intricate mini-archipelago of spectacular islands. The three local longboats were full of our combined ICA and World ARC fleet for this popular tour so we joined Glen and Jillian from ICA catamaran Malakite - Glen drives fast so we managed to fit in several more special spots than the rest!

Vanuatu was the focus for our own 'mercy' mission combining our donations with those of World ARC - each boat shopped in Savusavu for a huge cooking pot - about 36 litres - and then for multiple items to fill it. A large list of hardware and domestic items - from cutlasses to mattresses - was bought and stowed mainly on our fleet's three cats.

Other impressions from our few days in Savusavu:

- the similarities of the cultural mix to Trinidad.
- the billboards seeking Fijians text-voting on about 20 versions for their new 'un-union jacked' national flag - the present one is a pale blue ensign.
- metalwork artist Shane Bower who also fixed the loose joints on our large bimini frame with 56 stainless steel spot welds in less than a day
- the excellent Police Band marching through the street with choreographed movements, some requiring instruments to be laid down temporarily - men and women alike uniformed in 'skirts' -part of an anti-crime festival
- prompt service from the private medical practice that also does hot baths from the natural springs here.
- friendliness of virtually everyone - Bula being the usual greeting

Eating ashore is good value in Fiji - Surf and Turf got our business for their set menu on the last night, Saturday 20th June, the place virtually full of World ARC (ten boats coinciding here during their free cruising)- now the competition from the Americans was gone with USNS Mercy now moved on to Papua New Guinea.

With much debate amongst the fleet that day over weather and routing, including a group visit to Curly Carswell for local counsel, we stuck to our original plan, along with Allegro, to do three long 50/60 mile day sails north about Viti Levu to Vuda Marina, navigating the intricate waymarked passages inside the mainly invisible and mostly unmarked reef system.

Sunday 21st saw us sailing briskly in up to 25 knot winds to the former leper colony island of Makogai. Ashore to do our 'sevusevu' - presenting kava to the chief followed by a conducted tour of the derelict buildings, the cemetery (1500 graves) then the current activities of culturing giant clams and providing a sanctuary for turtles. We dined on Allegro's catch of a fine dorado, expertly cooked by Rui.

Monday 22nd- a short passage to enter the reef system at the island of Naigani then motoring the whole day- 24 waypoints and 110 manual plots for us - our electronic charts not being good enough for this area. The attractive northern coast appears mostly uninhabited, hilly and only partly forested. We share the large anchorage at Nananu-I Thake with about six other yachts and 104 metre super yacht Ocean Victory - Russian oligarch owned, six swimming pools etc. An impressive sight with her Italian design and night lighting scheme.

Tuesday 23rd,our third 06.30 start for this last leg with slightly less intricate but still time consuming pilotage. A spanish mackerel was landed and baked immediately for lunch. Winds increased to over 25 knots for the last few hours slowing progress sometimes down to 2 knots, as we passed the town of Lautoka. The final night approach and entry via the narrow manmade channel through the reef into Vuda was challenging - it was a great relief to be safely in.

Exody was hauled today Wednesday 24th so we are on dry land here at Vuda (pronounced Vunda)along with four other World ARC boats. Half of the painting is done and a busy few days ahead - crew changes and stocking up for the next leg to Vanuatu.

Peter (Skipper)

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